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"try the general finishes stain blocking primer. really works great", I tested one door with the General Stain Blocker. I'm impressed, appears to have exceptional adhesion properties, I let it dry over night, tried to scratch the hell out of it this morning, nothing, sands great, looking good!! Monday will be the real test over the Milesi. Expensive adventure here, will see? Thanks for the recommendation.
 

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Water stains and Tannins are two different challenges. For decades, paint manufacturers have had waterborne products to address tannins. They are designed to work exactly like Coco said. The first coat for tannin absorption and lock in, while the second coat is for encapsulation once the first coat has thoroughly cured.

The problem is, most painters rarely allow the first coat to thoroughly cure before applying the second. Then they'll complain that the tannins are bleeding through.

As far as water stains, only oil, or shellac works.
 

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Water stains and Tannins are two different challenges. For decades, paint manufacturers have had waterborne products to address tannins. They are designed to work exactly like Coco said. The first coat for tannin absorption and lock in, while the second coat is for encapsulation once the first coat has thoroughly cured.

The problem is, most painters rarely allow the first coat to thoroughly cure before applying the second. Then they'll complain that the tannins are bleeding through.

As far as water stains, only oil, or shellac works.
I rarely see much water damage, other than I can do with a chip brush and a quart of BIN (or a spray can). Same with knot holes.

I think it's great that there are waterborne primers that can handle many of the other stains.
 

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I rarely see much water damage, other than I can do with a chip brush and a quart of BIN (or a spray can). Same with knot holes.

I think it's great that there are waterborne primers that can handle many of the other stains.
Zinsser Bullseye 123 waterborne is a good all purpose primer. It claims to kill stains, but I find it doesn't do as well, or immediate of a job, as Zinsser Cover Stain, or Zinsser BIN. And the reason for this, I believe, is that Zinsser 123 is sold as a "Fast Dry" primer.

Consequently, painters think it can be recoated within 45 minutes like all of the other fast dry organic solvent based (alcohol, naptha, touline, etc.) primers. And in an industry where speed is the primary skill set, who has time to sit around and wait to do things right, or environmentally conscientious for that matter.
 

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Zinsser Bullseye 123 waterborne is a good all purpose primer. It claims to kill stains, but I find it doesn't do as well, or immediate of a job, as Zinsser Cover Stain, or Zinsser BIN. And the reason for this, I believe, is that Zinsser 123 is sold as a "Fast Dry" primer.

Consequently, painters think it can be recoated within 45 minutes like all of the other fast dry organic solvent based (alcohol, naptha, touline, etc.) primers. And in an industry where speed is the primary skill set, who has time to sit around and wait to do things right, or environmentally conscientious for that matter.
How do you feel about Zinsser's SmartPrime aka 123plus - (their contribution to the new wb Stain-blocking primers)?

123 is great for some things, bit I don't trust it for everything. I'm with you on that.
CS is a great primer, but is hard (personally) to handle indoors. BIN is great, but also, hard for me to handle in large quantities.
 

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How do you feel about Zinsser's SmartPrime aka 123plus - (their contribution to the new wb Stain-blocking primers)?

123 is great for some things, bit I don't trust it for everything. I'm with you on that.
CS is a great primer, but is hard (personally) to handle indoors. BIN is great, but also, hard for me to handle in large quantities.
I haven't used the Smart Prime Plus. The TDS recommends a two hour dry time before recoating. It also suggests using BIN, or Cover Stain for "severe " staining. I will try it though. I can't believe I haven't . I think it's been available since 2011?
 

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I haven't used the Smart Prime Plus. The TDS recommends a two hour dry time before recoating. It also suggests using BIN, or Cover Stain for "severe " staining. I will try it though. I can't believe I haven't . I think it's been available since 2011?
This year was first time I tried it.
can see making use of it in certain circumstances.

Edit: I'm fairly certain it is a one hour coat time. It sands to powder in less than an hour. We re-coated in less than an hour without any apparent issues.
 

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I shot 18 doors yesterday with the General Finish Stain Blocker. Lays and levels exceptionally well. Humidity was a little higher yesterday, so about 3 hour dry time. Used a 310 FFLP Tip. Only small issue which I normally do not experience is the tip would quickly clog up, but once you reversed the tip, spray, return to the spray position it was fine. On a side note, decided to take time off to fix an 02 sensor on my 2010, F150, wrench slipped cut off my right index finger tip, so I will be at a work stoppage!!!
 

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I shot 18 doors yesterday with the General Finish Stain Blocker. Lays and levels exceptionally well. Humidity was a little higher yesterday, so about 3 hour dry time. Used a 310 FFLP Tip. Only small issue which I normally do not experience is the tip would quickly clog up, but once you reversed the tip, spray, return to the spray position it was fine. On a side note, decided to take time off to fix an 02 sensor on my 2010, F150, wrench slipped cut off my right index finger tip, so I will be at a work stoppage!!!
Use duct tape.
 

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I shot 18 doors yesterday with the General Finish Stain Blocker. Lays and levels exceptionally well. Humidity was a little higher yesterday, so about 3 hour dry time. Used a 310 FFLP Tip. Only small issue which I normally do not experience is the tip would quickly clog up, but once you reversed the tip, spray, return to the spray position it was fine. On a side note, decided to take time off to fix an 02 sensor on my 2010, F150, wrench slipped cut off my right index finger tip, so I will be at a work stoppage!!!
Sorry about your finger...

I like the GF product a lot only complaint is its non tintable and the cost is prohibitive for many. even fresh start is half the price.
 

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We did a thorough test of SmartPrime, and found that it was smooth enough to paint without sanding in some instances, and was slightly smoother when a little M1 Extender was introduced as a leveling agent.

However it benefitted from sanding (when time and budget allowed), and was able to sand to powder and top-coat in less than an hour.
All I can tell it sands rather poorly....
Try Green light coatings 2004 primer
 
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