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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Had a two day window with good weather in which to clean and stain an old teak bench that was in otherwise good shape. Scrubbed twice to make sure I got all the tight spots, If I were doing this again I would have used a garden pump sprayer to help flood liquid on faster and evenly. I wanted to use Daly's ship'n'shore + teak oil finish but that is a multiple day process. I ended up using the Arborcoat 326-30 Teak. I chose a one coat oil based finish because I wanted a longer open time than water based could afford since I was brushing by hand. Spray and back brush would have been my preferred application especially for controlling drips and pools through the slats.



Process:

Scrubbed with 1:3 BM Restore and a stiff bristle brush.
Rinsed with garden hose

Scrubbed with 1:4 BM Brighten
Rinsed with garden hose
Let dry 36 hours then light sanding with 60 grit. At this point the wood looks new.

Wiped with acetone then stained using a black bristle and block brush.


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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
@cocomonkeynuts thanks for the follow up reasoning. Makes goodsense to me. The next pine I stain directly I think will condition with a little acetone to see if that helps with the splotchinees...Just a thought.
Not sure how effective it is at reducing splotchiness due to uneven absorbtion but acetone is supposed to be particularly useful in removing latent surface moisture and when switching between water and solvent based materials and removing the natural surface oils from hardwood species like teak that interfere with adhesion and dry times of coatings. I was mainly using it to remove sanding dust and make sure no moisture remaining prior to staining. If I was looking to use as a slip coat I would use MEK instead.
 
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