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V50 is the high voc version and v51 is the lower. V50 which I use is rated for cabinets and v51 is not.
I have seen quite a few posts from yourself and repaint Florida on the BT and have been using it over the last few weeks. I gotta say so far it’s a love/hate, at least while I’m figuring it out. I’m starting to come to the conclusion that it’s almost better to use with no primer. Im doing a kitchen with it now , and followed repaints suggestion of seal grip under white. This particular kitchen was black lower white upper so really a perfect test for that. I did my initial testing in the shop and all was good.
black no primer looked and felt like glass. Hard as hell, beautiful (and I hate black there’s always something) but the white set, primer dried overnight, excellent adhesion but “primer” touch/feel... shot my first coat of white BT and checked on it about 8 hrs later and it was really soft. Felt completely different than the black. Let dry overnight, shot 2nd, same thing still latex feeling. Is this just a different curing process cuz of the primer. Waiting to see how it feels over the next day or two before I panic lol.. I’ll be posting much more but that’s my 2 cents for now
 

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I have seen quite a few posts from yourself and repaint Florida on the BT and have been using it over the last few weeks. I gotta say so far it’s a love/hate, at least while I’m figuring it out. I’m starting to come to the conclusion that it’s almost better to use with no primer. Im doing a kitchen with it now , and followed repaints suggestion of seal grip under white. This particular kitchen was black lower white upper so really a perfect test for that. I did my initial testing in the shop and all was good.
black no primer looked and felt like glass. Hard as hell, beautiful (and I hate black there’s always something) but the white set, primer dried overnight, excellent adhesion but “primer” touch/feel... shot my first coat of white BT and checked on it about 8 hrs later and it was really soft. Felt completely different than the black. Let dry overnight, shot 2nd, same thing still latex feeling. Is this just a different curing process cuz of the primer. Waiting to see how it feels over the next day or two before I panic lol.. I’ll be posting much more but that’s my 2 cents for now
Breakthrough is completely fine on its own. It sticks to damn near everything so adhesion isn't an issue. The only reason I prime with it is to prevent bleeding issues, Breakthrough likes to pull out stains for some reason. I've never primed with seal grip mostly I'm using shellac and over shellac it doesn't feel any different than without it.

I too have a love hate with it but once you get through the learning curve it's not too bad to work with. If spraying airless use a 308 tip, that's the tip I've found works best with it.
 

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Breakthrough is completely fine on its own. It sticks to damn near everything so adhesion isn't an issue. The only reason I prime with it is to prevent bleeding issues, Breakthrough likes to pull out stains for some reason. I've never primed with seal grip mostly I'm using shellac and over shellac it doesn't feel any different than without it.

I too have a love hate with it but once you get through the learning curve it's not too bad to work with. If spraying airless use a 308 tip, that's the tip I've found works best with it.
I see some real time saving potential with the product for sure. I’m so used to priming and assessing/fixing imperfections, priming again, sanding again etc...it would be nice to fix any obvious imperfections while doing my initial scuff sand,(I find a combination of medium surf prep pads with the 220-320 abrasive films are just enough to powder up the existing finish but not burn thru preventing a possible stain bleed) hit my first coat of BT, make sure everything is good looking, and continue on to 2nd.. all this with just some spray cans of bin next to me in the event you get some bleeding or repair spot priming. A couple more tests and smaller jobs I think I’ll get it figured out.

There’s no shortage of surprises in this game we play haha... I also need to get another pump. I’ve been using my x5 which is normally for my thinner WB coatings but I have the pressure cranked and still get a streaky/tail pattern occasionally.

I’m also playing with my gun filters. With the fflp tips I usually use the fine mesh, but it almost seems too restrictive. I might jump up until I get clogs and drop down.

another thing that I’ve noticed and seen mentioned is BT is ridiculously dirty and must be strained every time the lid comes off haha.. that and the viscosity changes from their white base (thick like primer in my current situation) and the deep ( black beauty right now, is a lot thinner).. so a bigger pump will help eliminate any thinning needs.

ok I’m done typing for the night 😂
 

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I see some real time saving potential with the product for sure. I’m so used to priming and assessing/fixing imperfections, priming again, sanding again etc...it would be nice to fix any obvious imperfections while doing my initial scuff sand,(I find a combination of medium surf prep pads with the 220-320 abrasive films are just enough to powder up the existing finish but not burn thru preventing a possible stain bleed) hit my first coat of BT, make sure everything is good looking, and continue on to 2nd.. all this with just some spray cans of bin next to me in the event you get some bleeding or repair spot priming. A couple more tests and smaller jobs I think I’ll get it figured out.

There’s no shortage of surprises in this game we play haha... I also need to get another pump. I’ve been using my x5 which is normally for my thinner WB coatings but I have the pressure cranked and still get a streaky/tail pattern occasionally.

I’m also playing with my gun filters. With the fflp tips I usually use the fine mesh, but it almost seems too restrictive. I might jump up until I get clogs and drop down.

another thing that I’ve noticed and seen mentioned is BT is ridiculously dirty and must be strained every time the lid comes off haha.. that and the viscosity changes from their white base (thick like primer in my current situation) and the deep ( black beauty right now, is a lot thinner).. so a bigger pump will help eliminate any thinning needs.

ok I’m done typing for the night 😂
A 308 tip will greatly reduce your problem with tails. It took me forever to figure how to spray Breakthrough without thinning it and that was the ticket. I spray with a Graco ProFinish II with the pressure turned up just a hair above halfway. Even though I'm using a AAA machine I've never been able to get it to spray nice with the air assist which is disappointing and my screen died so I don't know exactly what psi I'm at so a little above halfway is the most accurate I can give you. I've found the deeper bases to be thicker but they all have a tremendous amount of junk and need to be strained prior to spraying.
 

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A 308 tip will greatly reduce your problem with tails. It took me forever to figure how to spray Breakthrough without thinning it and that was the ticket. I spray with a Graco ProFinish II with the pressure turned up just a hair above halfway. Even though I'm using a AAA machine I've never been able to get it to spray nice with the air assist which is disappointing and my screen died so I don't know exactly what psi I'm at so a little above halfway is the most accurate I can give you. I've found the deeper bases to be thicker but they all have a tremendous amount of junk and need to be strained prior to spraying.
Get your self one of these. indispensable for diagnosing sprayer issues.
 

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So if the PPg low voc breakthrough isn't good for kitchen cabinets than nothing is. All I have to choose from is big box stores and Benjamin moore so I am out of luck.
Advance from Ben moore. Water based alkyd, not brushmarks, no need to spray. What's not to like?
 

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Emerald is worth a try. It gets harder than advance. I know this site likes to poop on SW, but not all of their stuff is bad.

Also, filter your paint before it even gets to the pump. I don't run filters in my guns, mainly because they clog too fast and aren't easy to get to for cleaning. Run a manifold filter of your choosing, but a medium mesh should be fine. If you keep getting tip clogs, you can try a finer mesh, but seriously just filter with a mesh bag or something.
 

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Advance from Ben moore. Water based alkyd, not brushmarks, no need to spray. What's not to like?
16 recoat time, takes forever to dry, deep colors are a nightmare, and any little sanding mark shows right through.
 

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16 recoat time, takes forever to dry, deep colors are a nightmare, and any little sanding mark shows right through.
I'm sure there is discussion of this in one of the many threads where Advance comes up. But I'm wondering whether or not anyone cheats / has cheated on the recoat time. I have not, but also avoid Advance partly for this reason.

But I know a woodworker guy who does a lot of custom cabs along with his own finishing. I asked him once and he said "why, what's the recoat time?" And when I said 16 hrs, he just laughed and said, oh, yes - all of the time.

While it does take longer than a typical latex interior to dry, it's still - to me - feeling dry enough to recoat typically within a couple of hours. So what happens if you cheat and don't give it the 16 hours? It just seems weird. Even oil based stuff isn't that long. So who knows what's up with that? What happens if I only wait, say, 4 hours? Or even 8?
 

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I'm sure there is discussion of this in one of the many threads where Advance comes up. But I'm wondering whether or not anyone cheats / has cheated on the recoat time. I have not, but also avoid Advance partly for this reason.

But I know a woodworker guy who does a lot of custom cabs along with his own finishing. I asked him once and he said "why, what's the recoat time?" And when I said 16 hrs, he just laughed and said, oh, yes - all of the time.

While it does take longer than a typical latex interior to dry, it's still - to me - feeling dry enough to recoat typically within a couple of hours. So what happens if you cheat and don't give it the 16 hours? It just seems weird. Even oil based stuff isn't that long. So who knows what's up with that? What happens if I only wait, say, 4 hours? Or even 8?
It will possibly rewet its self and not cure properly. People of course push the recoat all the time.

Speaking of recoat times... Aura will be getting a refresh soon with some upgrades to include more open time, better sag resistence, better hide in off whites, and possibly incorporating some scuffx technology.
 

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I've done it tons and the world didn't end. Although its not good practice especially on something like cabinet doors. If it hasn't finished off gassing, there could be long term consequences, like the product staying softer than norm, or taking longer to cure, marring etc.
The long cure time doesn't usually bother me on bigger projects. I'm usually not putting a second coat until the next day anyway.
Even cabinet coat is a 6 hr. Recommended recoat. Who's going to wait around 6 hours for that?
 

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The recoat time in advance is the same as an oil base. Even though its dry, it takes oxidation to cure. If you recoat too soon, you prevent that oxidation on the first coat.
 

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I’m never concerned with between coat drying times and turnaround times in general, letting things dry the distance before recoating, and pretty much include a 2-week turnaround stipulation in the contracts no matter how quickly something can be finished. Why the big rush? Limited space? Cash-flow? Inconveniencing the customer? Scheduling?
 

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My issue with advance is that it stays wet for so long. They claim it's so the paint can level out, etc... All I can say is that it's more time for sags to happen, dirt and dust to get kicked into it, etc...

It's not a contractor paint, it's a DIY product. Imagine trying to paint doors and trim on an actual construction site with Advance. What a nightmare.
 

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My issue with advance is that it stays wet for so long. They claim it's so the paint can level out, etc... All I can say is that it's more time for sags to happen, dirt and dust to get kicked into it, etc...

It's not a contractor paint, it's a DIY product. Imagine trying to paint doors and trim on an actual construction site with Advance. What a nightmare.
Definitely not suited to a busy new construction site. Great for a controlled shop setting. With the right climate setting, its dry to the touch in an hour or so.
 
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