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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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Just remember the inside corner thread. Pick the most prominent corner and start there, so at least THAT one will be nice. At least this design, you could take a blue marker and button up some bad spots.

Of course, if its above wainscoting, there should be too much waiver at the corners, since it will be short, so you're probably okay.
 

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Wouldn't be better to start centre wall? If you start in a corner, by the time you get to the far corner, any flaws in the squareness of the room will have become greatly exaggerated, especially if it's a long run.With that pattern, it will not be very forgiving if it's off square.
 

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Don't know how you paper hangers do it. Too complicated for this painter!
I'm a sucker for punishment. I only do a few hangs per year and usually sweat and curse through the whole thing. 😅
 

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Knowing there are 5 inside corners plus 1 outside corner and 3 windows. Would any of these be more forgiving? I feel that there is no way the lines will match up in the corners unless I wrap and double cut everything.
 

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Knowing there are 5 inside corners plus 1 outside corner and 3 windows. Would any of these be more forgiving? I feel that there is no way the lines will match up in the corners unless I wrap and double cut everything.
The first and third would be the most forgiving because they are busier and don't have those clean, geometric lines. Because of that, when you get to the corners it will not be so blatantly obvious if you if it is not so precise. BTW: Wrapping and double cutting is the most common way to get patterns perfectly fitted. (Don't you wish all rooms were created perfectly square!? None, ever, are!) P.S. On that outside corner, you will want to wrap around the corner rather than have a seam right on the corner.

An aside, 6 corners and 3 windows!, you really pick your spots when choosing to be "a sucker for punishment."!! :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The first and third would be the most forgiving because they are busier and don't have those clean, geometric lines. Because of that, when you get to the corners it will not be so blatantly obvious if you if it is not so precise. BTW: Wrapping and double cutting is the most common way to get patterns perfectly fitted. (Don't you wish all rooms were created perfectly square!? None, ever, are!) P.S. On that outside corner, you will want to wrap around the corner rather than have a seam right on the corner.

An aside, 6 corners and 3 windows!, you really pick your spots when choosing to be "a sucker for punishment."!! :LOL:
Ya, I think you're right. That geometric design is gonna be a b$&ch to match up.
 

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Wouldn't be better to start centre wall? If you start in a corner, by the time you get to the far corner, any flaws in the squareness of the room will have become greatly exaggerated, especially if it's a long run.With that pattern, it will not be very forgiving if it's off square.
When the ceiling line is out of level, which is most of the time, I use my laser to determine the high and low areas. I will then try to start my layout close to the lowest area, so that I don't risk losing the focal point of the pattern when the ceiling line takes a dive.
 

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Wouldn't be better to start centre wall? If you start in a corner, by the time you get to the far corner, any flaws in the squareness of the room will have become greatly exaggerated, especially if it's a long run.With that pattern, it will not be very forgiving if it's off square.
Those are the decisions we have to make. If the lids off square, its off square, no matter where you start. I try to make my ceiling line somewhere on the paper where theres a little give and take if its like that. Ive also had ceilings where I spliced in a few inches at the top to make it match the lid better. with this kind of a pattern, I would start at a corner so you can match the pattern really nice there. You cant do that if you start in the center.
 

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Designer has chosen this paper for a whole dining room.(above wainscoting) 1 outside corner. Anyone hung this before and level of difficulty or suggestions.? Thanks.
It’s just basic paper. Nothing special about it. Just be absolutely careful that your level line is perfect when you start and again as you get to each wall you will most likely need to cut the corners a bit to re level the paper as you get to each new wall so your pattern will stay dead on. Where are you located? Do you have a good paper hanger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It’s just basic paper. Nothing special about it. Just be absolutely careful that your level line is perfect when you start and again as you get to each wall you will most likely need to cut the corners a bit to re level the paper as you get to each new wall so your pattern will stay dead on. Where are you located? Do you have a good paper hanger?
I'm in Newfoundland Canada. Not many people hanging paper here these days, I do my own installs and am pretty familiar with all the steps. The geometric paper is definitely not just basic imo. Its super hard to match up the pattern in the corners. Have been burned with this type of paper before.
 
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