Trim nail holes

Nsomepaint said:

For new new construction mostly, what do you use for trim nail holes etc... I either use Crawfords putty or lightweight spackle but find either doesn't completely make the holes disappear. If trying for a level 5 finish what would you suggest?

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Wil probably need 2 passes. 1st with lightweight spackle, 2nd with regular spackle.

Nsomepaint said:

For new new construction mostly, what do you use for trim nail holes etc... I either use Crawfords putty or lightweight spackle but find either doesn't completely make the holes disappear. If trying for a level 5 finish what would you suggest?

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MH ready patch overfill and sand.

Mh shrinks so filling can take multiple passes

Shurstik feather weight spackle. Dries fast and very hard, doesn't shrink.

I'll definitely try shurstick, I'm not a big fan of mh, trying to avoid having to do 2 coats if possible. I dont really do "true" level 5 finishes, most new construction doesnt call for that but I'm always looking for ways to boost quality and efficiency.

It really is good stuff. I get it here in Canada at Dulux in 2L tubs. Not sure if Dulux is a thing down in the US.

I'll have to try out the Shurstick. I've generally been on the lightweight spackle - usually Dap fast 'n final. If you get a complete fill (just a hard mush and swipe off with a putty knife) it bulges out slightly when dry and a quick scuff sand knocks it flat. They do become basically invisible after a couple of top coats. Trickier and not as good on larger holes (like trim screw heads as opposed to brads).

I've used Drydex as well as Dynamic Dyna Pro Patch. The Drydex goes on pink and dries white. The Dyna Patch Pro goes on white and dries white and dries about the fastest of any spackle I have used, fairly hard as well.

I also sometimes use a thin rubber spatula to push the spackle into the nail hole so that the spackle pushes back out to form a small bump which I like to think helps me avoid a second patch due to shrinkage.

futtyos

I like the 3M high strength small hole repair.

Bondo glazing putty I've found doesn't shrink much at all, but then you've got the fumes.

I've tried Drydex, but found it generates way too much dust and it shrinks like crazy. That's one thing I love about Shurstik is that if you apply it properly it sands nicely and doesn't generate a huge mess with all the dust.

futtyos said:

I've used Drydex as well as Dynamic Dyna Pro Patch. The Drydex goes on pink and dries white. The Dyna Patch Pro goes on white and dries white and dries about the fastest of any spackle I have used, fairly hard as well.

I also sometimes use a thin rubber spatula to push the spackle into the nail hole so that the spackle pushes back out to form a small bump which I like to think helps me avoid a second patch due to shrinkage.

futtyos

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Note about sanding Dyna Pro Patch. I was spackling little dings in a kitchen today with Dynamic Dyna Pro Patch. One area about 2" in diameter was popping out, so I razor bladed it off, then used some old Durabond 20 mixed with hot water to speed hardening, then set fan on a ladder to dry said patch. When I went to sand all the patched the Durabond patch sanded much easier than the Dyn Pro Patch! Maybe the Durabond was too old and that is why it sanded easier than the Dyna Pro. Regardless, if anyone cares to try Dyna Pro make sure you don't over-fill too much.

futtyos

Nsomepaint said:

I'll definitely try shurstick, I'm not a big fan of mh, trying to avoid having to do 2 coats if possible. I dont really do "true" level 5 finishes, most new construction doesnt call for that but I'm always looking for ways to boost quality and efficiency.

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You can over fill it and sand it back flush with a RO, but imo is more work then 2 thin passes. The lightweight stuff is not good for final passes, it;s too fluffy and grainy. Regular wood spackle is better for the final pass as it is smooth and creamy..

some people mix wood filler and crawfords spackle half and half. anything that still shows after the the prime, or even first coat, you can use spot putty. if you use a razor blade like a putty knife, it wont even need a sand.

Sometimes what you're sanding has a lot to do with what you're sanding with. Foam sanding blocks are awesome because they are malleable and conform to the contour of a surface. I notice that how ever well a nail hole is filled, if you put too much pressure on the block, the block actually dips down into the hole. Now I quickly run a block over the trim to smooth before I fill. I use the drydex, with pressure on a flex knife to get that little mound. 220 hand sand on spackle spots after that.

Regular finish: Dap Drydex.
Level 5: Bondo Glazing and spot putty.

I only use the spot putty on cabinets usually.

For most clients, the Painter’s Putty ‘53 in one- maybe two passes in enough for them. For higher end clients, I do 2 passes of wood filler.
When I worked in NC a few years ago doing high-end beach houses, we were working for a really anal GC who did a lot of Level5 drywall houses. Simple 1x4/1x6 casings and base, and lots of shiplap walls and double turn staircases with shiplap walls. We would wood filler all of the seams and nail holes (one house a day), then come back to that house the next morning and sand them smooth with a power sander, and repeat the process where necessary for a second pass. That made him happy, and that’s what I’ve done on high end jobs ever since.
I would say Bondo wouldn’t be bad for a one pass and done, then sand smooth. It just gets really f’n hard and is difficult to sand, so you might end up taking primer off of pre-primed trim trying to sand the Bondo smooth. 🤷🏻‍♂️

fromthenorthwest said:

I like the 3M high strength small hole repair.

Bondo glazing putty I've found doesn't shrink much at all, but then you've got the fumes.

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I agree. The 3m is my go to

Dap 33 window glazing, dried out a little by rolling it in 20 minute joint compound. There’s no other way in my opinion. If a hole fish- eyes, hit it again. It’s the quickest, too. Spackle flashes unless you sand it all off and spot prime before applying finish.

Ramus8T said:

Regular finish: Dap Drydex.
Level 5: Bondo Glazing and spot putty.

I only use the spot putty on cabinets usually.

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Just to clarify for level 5.
Dap first, sand, vacuum, bondo putty, sand, vacuum, tack cloth, prime, paint.