Varnish redux

2763 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by daArch, Aug 24, 2008

daArch

Discussion Starter · Aug 23, 2008

I gotta couple of days of BEAUTIFUL weather coming up - perfect for drying varnish.

I've started sanding down my wallpaper table (simple plywood, six feet long, thirty inches wide. Hinged lengthwise down middle) and will apply multiple coats of Epifanes high gloss varnish.

Yes yes yes, I've applied varnish many times to many surfaces, but I'm self taught. And now that I have you guys as a resource, I thought I would see if anyone has a better way or some tips that will improve my technique.

Here's what I've always done - PLEASE offer anything you feel would make for the best possible longevity, application, and looks.

Sand surface to bare wood. Finish sand with 120 (maybe 220). Sweep, vacuum, and then WELL tack. Application will be in shop. Brush is an old 2" Purdy Tango (black china) that has only been used for clear finishes.

Cut first coat 50/50 with turps (should min. spirits or thinner be used). second coat 75/25 varnish/turps. Third & fourth coats full strength.

Sand each coat when dry with 220.

Strain turps and varnish through stocking.

Application will be in rows, maybe about two brush widths wide, worked end to end. Each "row" is initially feathered at it's completion. I generally try to apply a "medium" thickness, so that I can final feather each whole surface when completed.

Last time I varnished it, little "bubbles" appeared after the third and fourth coat , and were HELL to sand out. I put a fifth THIN coat on and there were only "minor" bubbles. And I'm not sure they were bubbles, because they never popped. Any ideas?

Suggestions for improvement?

TIA

-Bill

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vermontpainter

· #2 · Aug 23, 2008

Bill

A couple of suggestions that might help:

On the sanding, maybe start at 120-150, then on each successive round of in between coat sanding go finer each time, ending at maybe 320. This slicks it up nice. With each successive coat, you are thinning less and less, so the smoother the surface the better.

I would also, experiment with maybe foam rolling the first couple of coats to expedite matters. A whizz size foam roller works well. The initial coats are really hard to keep wet. Just dont press down on the roller or it will rope on you. (although I am glad to see I am not alone in my propensity to brush everything with a 2 inch brush).

I am assuming this is cabinet grade plywood?

Also, it might be time to retire the epiphanes and go with something like Ultramax. You could have 4 coats in a day and be done.

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daArch

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 23, 2008

Thanks Scott,

Not sure I have a mini foam. I'm about start applying as soon as I tack it. Also, is there truth in the reports that foam induces air bubbles ?

Maybe a quick trip to the local hardware or Ace is in order. What's another half hour?

(although I am glad to see I am not alone in my propensity to brush everything with a 2 inch brush).

What ! Are there other methods of applying architectural coatings ??

And, no, I'm afraid it is not cabinet grade. I made this about 30 years ago. I was not in the frame of mind to invest real money in the table. Wallpapering then was an added service to my painting, not what it is today. But it's been working very well.

I do not know Ultramax. What is it? Is it hard and brittle? Or resilient like a good varnish?

I had such great results with the Man O War and such poor results with the floor poly, that I wanted another varnish.

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vermontpainter

· #4 · Aug 23, 2008

Foam will leave tiny bubbles, thats why I suggested it for the first coat or two which will be sanded liberally anyways. Just a quick way to lay the foundation.

ZAR Ultramax is a hybrid coating. It is a waterborne oil modified urethane. So essentially, it has the milky white look of a waterborne, and spreads and dries quickly like a waterborne, but the resulting finish is an oil. It is literally an oil urethane suspended in a waterborne platform. Amazing stuff. We have been using it at every opportunity.

You'll have to send a picture of that old table...why not just wallpaper it?

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daArch

Discussion Starter · #5 · Aug 23, 2008

vermontpainter said:
Foam will leave tiny bubbles, thats why I suggested it for the first coat or two which will be sanded liberally anyways. Just a quick way to lay the foundation.

Well, it took me as long to brush out the 1st coat and clean the brush as the trip to the store woulda taken, well actually about half the time.

ZAR Ultramax is a hybrid coating. It is a waterborne oil modified urethane. So essentially, it has the milky white look of a waterborne, and spreads and dries quickly like a waterborne, but the resulting finish is an oil. It is literally an oil urethane suspended in a waterborne platform. Amazing stuff. We have been using it at every opportunity.

Sounds like good sheeeet. Remind me again in about six years when it's time to refinish. OH, I'll be 65 then ............

You'll have to send a picture of that old table...why not just wallpaper it?

this ain't no work of art or high craftsmanship. It's a frigging box table. Doubles well as a bar. No pictures will be broadcast at 11:00.

Oh wait a minute, I do have one taken 4 1/2 years ago before I refinished it with the poly. As I said, it's a WORK table ! It's been hard used and abused for almost 30 years.

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Bender

· #6 · Aug 23, 2008

If your getting six years out of your system don't change a damn thing

Except maybe only 20% turpentine. That wood isn't drinking up (soaking in) any more after all these years.

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daArch

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 24, 2008

Bender said:
If your getting six years out of your system don't change a damn thing

Except maybe only 20% turpentine. That wood isn't drinking up (soaking in) any more after all these years.

I got six with the Man-o-war. Only about 3 with the poly. I do hope the Epifane gives me many years.

Today I was surprised how quickly the first coat was drunk in - but then again, the surface was sanded down to bare.

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