What do you use for patching cracked ext. wood?

MH ready patch is also good.

Premier, do you have a name or link by any chance. I would be interested in an elastomeric that does that good of a job. That's some great looking work there!

Also, you put an oil primer coat, latex prime coat, latex prime coat, and latex finish? Why two latex prime coats? Why not one oil, and two latex finish?

Premier, is your patch it a elastomeric product? Who makes it? and what vendor did you by it?

timhag I've seen that MH before it just never used it, Does it have elasticity

It is a product from a company called tex coat in Fla. It takes two coats to fill, but once it is dry, you can't get it off. We use makita disc sanders to get it smooth. You need an account set up with thwm in order to purchase it. Also, one coat oil, two latex and one top coat was in the specs...just following directions. It is a great job for us with tons of exposure on a busy road. The before pics of the church are on my other camera so I can't post them yet.

Can you use that Crawford's putty on int and ext? I've been trying to find a product to use on these french doors in my mother's house. The panes surrounding the glass, have come apart where they meet the long peices of wood that make up the side of the doors where the hinges are. I figure with a good putty and some patience with the knife and sanding, and you wont notice after its been painted.

my main concern when using ext. patching materials on a substrate that can move on you is cracking.

ewingpainting.net said:

I've seen that MH before it just never used it, Does it have elasticity

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No not really. It reminds me much of drywall mud for the exterior. Works great for skimming out inperfections in clapboard & such.

I don't do a ton of exterior repaints so I've just used the Minwax filler in the squeeze tube (yellow/black tube at HD/Lowes). I really like it because it can flow into spots much easier IMO than the regular tub of wood putty...IIRC, the Minwax high performance is just Bonda repackaged...

Some years back when doing antique home restorations we used a special 2 part epoxy that came in syringes I believe....I prefer whatever will setup the fastest and am always looking for better ways...

Jeremy

I have used gorilla glue or polyurethane Elmers glue that has help tough on thin 12 inch cedar cracks for 5 years and counting. Caulk seems inferior, the gorilla glue creates a newlike strong board. I have used it on 10 inch long slplits no problem. If you sand it down with a pumice stone after it bubbles and expands into the crackit it is hardly notieable. Thanks

I mix up elmer glue and sawdust into a paste, its sandable, drys hard , stays together for years.

crow said:

I mix up elmer glue and sawdust into a paste, its sandable, drys hard , stays together for years.

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I knew a guy that said he did that for interior woodwork years ago. I do not know how well it stained though. Like I said, this was for pieces that stayed inside. Are you saying the Elmer's glue holds up for exterior?

Paintin only, it aint good for stainin, but its old school, and its been used for years, back when they didnt have all these fancy products a man had to experement and find what worked. but it holds its own, yes ext.

One reason I ask about the glue holding up is it seems to me use it to create a crackle effect on woodwork? I guess the thin coat applied to the wood causes it to crackle like that.

Sanding with pumice stone? You learn something new everyday. I actually have a small one laying around somewhere. It's going in the toolbox tonight.

cracks

Yup sand her down till she is flush, you can even skive it off with a flexible knife. Paintable stainable 100 percent waterproof. Usually fully cured and ready to go over in one hour. Depending on the surrounding surface, size of the crack and (you can fill some pretty wide deep cracks), might want to spread a thin layer of caulk into the urethane "weave" for a smooth texture if needed.

Don't have to use alot stuff swells like a wiener in a brothel.