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For me it hung well. I usually don't have problems with spraying the thinner coatings, like Agualente Plus, but the finisher working for me struggles a little more on the verticals with that product. He had less issues with the Arroyo, in other words it hung better.
Thanks for the info. I might pick up a gallon to play around with.
The ultra fine filters DID do the trick :) Finish came out perfect. We had replaced all her doors, but I had 3 doors that ended up having issues with the overlay, so I had to order new ones. I only had enough product left to run it through my HVLP. I used ultra fine cone strainers with the HVLP and they came out great too. Since I have a couple doors that I had finished that I couldn't use, my next step is to test the durability and stain resistance of the product compared to the Agualente Plus I usually use.
Great to hear that. Makes me definitely want to grab some. And you were refinishing directly over a solid finish right?

What tip were you running for the airless part of the job? I usually use a 308/10 but I ordered a 306 to try to dial in my method for some of these thinner coatings.
 

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Thanks for the info. I might pick up a gallon to play around with.

Great to hear that. Makes me definitely want to grab some. And you were refinishing directly over a solid finish right?

What tip were you running for the airless part of the job? I usually use a 308/10 but I ordered a 306 to try to dial in my method for some of these thinner coatings.
My sources tell me that Arroyo is for new stock only as it has a max film build. I guess if you sanded everything down enough it would probably work, but at what cost? ML Cambell is a product that I can actually get here also, so have researched it but never used it.
 

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My sources tell me that Arroyo is for new stock only as it has a max film build. I guess if you sanded everything down enough it would probably work, but at what cost? ML Cambell is a product that I can actually get here also, so have researched it but never used it.
On the pds it looks like the max dry film thickness is 6 mils. That seems like it could be achieved as long as the existing film build wasn't too thick already, no?
 

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On the pds it looks like the max dry film thickness is 6 mils. That seems like it could be achieved as long as the existing film build wasn't too thick already, no?
Theoretically yes. 🤷‍♂️It just just kind of scared me off..Let me know if you try it out..
 

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Thanks for the info. I might pick up a gallon to play around with.

Great to hear that. Makes me definitely want to grab some. And you were refinishing directly over a solid finish right?

What tip were you running for the airless part of the job? I usually use a 308/10 but I ordered a 306 to try to dial in my method for some of these thinner coatings.
The doors were new and I sprayed them with a 210. The boxes we scuffed with 150. The coating that was there sanded through easily quite a bit, but we were only trying to scuff. The TDS says it can go directly over a previous coating after scuffing. I tested the adhesion on the doors we replaced and I couldn't scratch it off the next day. It stuck like nails.
 

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I've done so little actual painting lately that I haven't even got to play in this thread. The paint I'm currently using is Rustoleum's Sunrise Red to spruce up my Dad's old Snap On box. I'm not doing any of the bigger boxes or else I'd get a proper match, but for me and my garage, we can live with it. I kept it the way it was for a long time after he passed because it smelled like him, (he was a lifelong mechanic). Now that I've done enough transmissions and differentials in my own garage, everything smells like him, so I just now got around to sprucing up the old box after 10.5 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I've done so little actual painting lately that I haven't even got to play in this thread. The paint I'm currently using is Rustoleum's Sunrise Red to spruce up my Dad's old Snap On box. I'm not doing any of the bigger boxes or else I'd get a proper match, but for me and my garage, we can live with it. I kept it the way it was for a long time after he passed because it smelled like him, (he was a lifelong mechanic). Now that I've done enough transmissions and differentials in my own garage, everything smells like him, so I just now got around to sprucing up the old box after 10.5 years.
Gloss sunrise red is a very beautiful color. I've seen a lot of cars done in it and it looks awesome.
 

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I've done so little actual painting lately that I haven't even got to play in this thread. The paint I'm currently using is Rustoleum's Sunrise Red to spruce up my Dad's old Snap On box. I'm not doing any of the bigger boxes or else I'd get a proper match, but for me and my garage, we can live with it. I kept it the way it was for a long time after he passed because it smelled like him, (he was a lifelong mechanic). Now that I've done enough transmissions and differentials in my own garage, everything smells like him, so I just now got around to sprucing up the old box after 10.5 years.
Sounds like your dad was a good man since you respect his tools like that.
 

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Within the last two weeks:

Old Masters oil based stain and Last n Last Poly- predictable results. Trusted. opinion is favorable.

SW- Woodscapes Solid Stain- very favorable for Cedar.

Bullseye 123 - reliable. On hand.

SW All Surface Enamel- good alternative for interior/exterior door paint. Levels out nicely. Brushes, rolls and sprays equally well, imo.

SW Latitude (?) - sh*t paint. Stringy. Was only paint available in quarts for color needed. Will never buy again.

PPG Acrylic Floor and Porch- Interior Screen Porch concrete floor (both previously painted and raw concrete)- I have never used this product before, but was chosen due to limited availability (only product in color available in area). Very favorable opinion. Durable finish (scratch resistant after 48 hours, and resisted foot traffic and furniture after 3-7 days), easy to apply, looked good.

Cabot’s oil based Solid Deck Stain - using on weather decks. Will stop handling re-stain of decks when this product is no longer available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Within the last two weeks:

Old Masters oil based stain and Last n Last Poly- predictable results. Trusted. opinion is favorable.

SW- Woodscapes Solid Stain- very favorable for Cedar.

Bullseye 123 - reliable. On hand.

SW All Surface Enamel- good alternative for interior/exterior door paint. Levels out nicely. Brushes, rolls and sprays equally well, imo.

SW Horizon (?) - sh*t paint. Stringy. Was only paint available in quarts for color needed. Will never buy again.

PPG Acrylic Floor and Porch- Interior Screen Porch concrete floor (both previously painted and raw concrete)- I have never used this product before, but was chosen due to limited availability (only product in color available in area). Very favorable opinion. Durable finish (scratch resistant after 48 hours, and resisted foot traffic and furniture after 3-7 days), easy to apply, looked good.

Cabot’s oil based Solid Deck Stain - using on weather decks. Will stop handling re-stain of decks when this product is no longer available.
Interesting, I was wanting to post back in this thread with some recent stuff but was getting lazy. I actually used some Woodscapes on an outdoor chair recently, I think I actually liked PPG's Flood Solid Stain a lot better. Woodscapes feels more like paint in how thick it is and how much brush drag you get, whereas the Flood Solid Stain is much thinner and smoother brushing, and durability-wise I got about 3 years out of it on a deck floor here.

Flood Solid Stain - Just as good as I remembered it. Last year on a job I used some BM Arborcoat latex and I swore it was harder to brush out compared to Flood, and I was going over a coat of Arborcoat and I think the wear was similar to Flood.

SW Woodscapes - It's OK, I think not as good as Flood.

Valspar Bonding Primer - Using leftovers and another gallon for some smaller exterior priming of door frames/etc at my house. Testing stain killing ability at my own house as well, have some new drywall mixed with old drywall in my kitchen, but the old drywall has popcorn removed and some touchup work that needs to be done for that. But the main thing is the old drywall is all yellowed from the acidic paper from the 1970s, so if you put compound on it turns yellow, etc, too. So far it's been good with the Valspar primer not bleeding through. I don't think it's necessarily the best primer ever made, etc, but it's going to be my Bullseye replacement from now on I think, it's about $5 more a gallon but really worth it. I would rate it possibly even higher than Problock latex, too.

Behr WB Alkyd - Old gallon I have leftover I used for some shelving, did an exterior metal door with it. I don't think they make this formula anymore, the new formula is urethane modified and I think meant to compete with SW Emerald Urethane, but this stuff was basically an Advance clone, except even more smelly. Crazy recoat time, too, 16 hours.

Promar ceiling paint - First time using this in a long while. I used to buy Masterhide, but it's no more, my SW rep tried to sell me on Painter's Edge but I figured go with a product I at least have used sort of in passing once. Price is cheap and cheerful so I figured try it out. I used it only once on a job in 2016 really briefly. So far it seems decent, and definitely whiter than Masterhide. I've only done a couple square feet of testing to see if I was going to get bleed through with my Valspar primer, but everything seems good so far.
 

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Interesting, I was wanting to post back in this thread with some recent stuff but was getting lazy. I actually used some Woodscapes on an outdoor chair recently, I think I actually liked PPG's Flood Solid Stain a lot better. Woodscapes feels more like paint in how thick it is and how much brush drag you get, whereas the Flood Solid Stain is much thinner and smoother brushing, and durability-wise I got about 3 years out of it on a deck floor here.

Flood Solid Stain - Just as good as I remembered it. Last year on a job I used some BM Arborcoat latex and I swore it was harder to brush out compared to Flood, and I was going over a coat of Arborcoat and I think the wear was similar to Flood.

SW Woodscapes - It's OK, I think not as good as Flood.

Valspar Bonding Primer - Using leftovers and another gallon for some smaller exterior priming of door frames/etc at my house. Testing stain killing ability at my own house as well, have some new drywall mixed with old drywall in my kitchen, but the old drywall has popcorn removed and some touchup work that needs to be done for that. But the main thing is the old drywall is all yellowed from the acidic paper from the 1970s, so if you put compound on it turns yellow, etc, too. So far it's been good with the Valspar primer not bleeding through. I don't think it's necessarily the best primer ever made, etc, but it's going to be my Bullseye replacement from now on I think, it's about $5 more a gallon but really worth it. I would rate it possibly even higher than Problock latex, too.

Behr WB Alkyd - Old gallon I have leftover I used for some shelving, did an exterior metal door with it. I don't think they make this formula anymore, the new formula is urethane modified and I think meant to compete with SW Emerald Urethane, but this stuff was basically an Advance clone, except even more smelly. Crazy recoat time, too, 16 hours.

Promar ceiling paint - First time using this in a long while. I used to buy Masterhide, but it's no more, my SW rep tried to sell me on Painter's Edge but I figured go with a product I at least have used sort of in passing once. Price is cheap and cheerful so I figured try it out. I used it only once on a job in 2016 really briefly. So far it seems decent, and definitely whiter than Masterhide. I've only done a couple square feet of testing to see if I was going to get bleed through with my Valspar primer, but everything seems good so far.
I’ve used a lot of Flood Solid Stain over the years- it is one of the primary Solid Stains available in this area. I don’t mind it, but I prefer Woodscapes. Flood dries with more of a sheen than I like for a stain; Stains shouldn’t have any sheen.

I think Woodscapes penetrates better, and…this is not conclusive, but Flood washes off my hands with no scrubbing after a day of working with it. Just makes me feel less confident about its properties.

Pratt and Lambert discontinued Stain Shield last year, which was the best latex Solid Stain on the market, imo.
 

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Used Advance on some doors and trim. I liked it but the sales clerk touted it’s open working time, which I did not feel was the case at all. Like most “hybrids” I had to lay it out and then resist the urge to go back and brush it out much more. But, the end result did look nice.
 

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Just finished a bathroom with Behr Ultra Scuff :( don't bother . Coverage was good but just the way it brushes and rolls is mea
Recently I had a customer insisting I use Behr whatever to paint their entire house stating the hiding qualities were far superior to BM. I refused and said I wasn't driving almost 100Km to get behr paint when Ben Moore was available right here in town.
Colour was Vanilla Milkshake over a beige. Of course with my luck I got hat banding and had to do all the brush work 3 coats. It didn't exactly support my argument that BM was way better than behr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Recently I had a customer insisting I use Behr whatever to paint their entire house stating the hiding qualities were far superior to BM. I refused and said I wasn't driving almost 100Km to get behr paint when Ben Moore was available right here in town.
Colour was Vanilla Milkshake over a beige. Of course with my luck I got hat banding and had to do all the brush work 3 coats. It didn't exactly support my argument that BM was way better than behr.
I bought some Behr Ultra Scuff for my kitchen a few months back because mainly while I didn't like the working quality of Behr, with a prior job at a friend's house I did as a super beginner in 2013/2014, I put up Behr Ultra and it did very admirably for durability, imo better than the Ben I put up later there. (Though the Ben sheen is a million times better, much lower sheen eggshell...) I'm not expecting Scuff-X quality out of it, but durability does seem to be a strong point. I only brushed out a couple of small spots to test it out and see the handling, I might reduce it by 4oz or so per gallon but it's not that bad.

With BM paints, after a couple episodes of people buying Behr when I was a super beginner, I used mostly SW and Valspar wall paints, and was rather shocked going to BM, in that I thought it was draggy and thick and reminded me a lot of... Behr. Regal wasn't so bad, but I hated Aura because imo it brushes pretty similarly to Behr and had similar issues with open time, flashing, etc. I read on here a while back that Behr Ultra was aiming to be a bootleg BM Aura. After I figured out some techniques and different tools (stiffer brushes) I got used to using even Aura on jobs with my boss, so retrying Behr now actually seems not so bad after that. Regal while less temperamental imo still will flash going over builder flat paints, in hot/dry rooms, etc, too.

To some extent paint is paint, in Behr's defense their products tend to do surprisingly well in the MPI ratings, but workability is definitely debatable. I've gone from total hate and disdain to "eh, it might be all right" with Behr.
 

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Recently I had a customer insisting I use Behr whatever to paint their entire house stating the hiding qualities were far superior to BM. I refused and said I wasn't driving almost 100Km to get behr paint when Ben Moore was available right here in town.
Colour was Vanilla Milkshake over a beige. Of course with my luck I got hat banding and had to do all the brush work 3 coats. It didn't exactly support my argument that BM was way better than behr.
the HO bought it when he picked up the new base board for the project . He told me on the way home he remembered my price was for all materials . So I just used and he said keep the money for the paint and base board as a bonus 😊 .
 

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Having done only interiors for the last dozen years, I like the BMs products I have used and if a customer expresses an desire for me use it, I am all totally on board. But usually, I just find it hard to try and sell a customer on the much higher cost of it. Even if it was worth it (and in some instances they very well may be), there are other interior products that will give great production and protection at somewhere around half the cost. Those products are going to go on just fine and give a more than adequate amount of service until the customer gets tired of the color, or their living situations change, and a new paint job is considered.

Some of the big BM advocates here may be able to refute what I am about to say, but I have felt for some time that BM has simply taken the "Crown Royal approach"* and have made their products so much more expensive in order to create the perception that they ARE just that much better and therefore worth the higher cost. With a few exceptions, I have yet to see much evidence of that being true.

* a slightly higher than average spirit that they put in a velvet bag and bumped up the cost by a huge amount, simply in order to create the image of it being a top shelf brand. In reality, there are much better ones out there at much lower prices - people just have to do the homework and not just succumb to the marketing.
 
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