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I'd like to explain why I dig Zinsser's Gardz primer so much. To do so, I must explain some things about hanging wallpaper.
When I install wallpaper, a primer must be used prior to hanging. As painters, we all know why it is important to prime. As a hanger, this might mean different things.
First off, a good primer will obviously help the wallcovering bond to the wall (provide 'tooth'). Second, it will help the wallcovering release from the wall when removal is performed. Third, it can provide 'slip' to a wall, helping a pasted sheet slide into place without it being stretched.
Most hangers use a water-based acrylic pre-wallcovering primer. The specs usually say to let it dry for 24 hours before initializing the next step. Hmm. How many of us apply the next coat when the primer is dry enough to touch or lightly sand. Yeah, me too.
Now this wouldn't be much of a problem for another coat of paint, but with wallcovering, it is a different scenario. Another coat of paint can be applied, and dry pretty quickly due to the evaporation of the vehicle. This doesn't strain the primer layer very much. But with a wallcovering, we are applying a much heavier/thicker layer coated with a thick, viscous paste that is water-based. On top of this, there is usually a vinyl layer hampering the drying/evaporation process. This causes the primer layer (which hasn't properly dried/cured) to basically reactivate, returning to a semi-liquid state. The paste inter-mingles with this broken-down primer, and becomes 'one'.
Add to this a little relative humidity, and a cheap builder's flat below the primer, and you got problems. We all know you can sneeze on builders flat, and it will rub off. Imagine layering on several mils of moisture, and allowing it to marinate for a day or two. Now you guys know why sometimes a 'properly prepped and primed' surface with a wallcovering can be a bear to remove.
So, to sum this up, a paperhanger looks for a fast drying primer, that won't re-wet or wet-out shortly after drying. Almost all paints or primers (acrylic or oil) will re-wet if applied to soon. I'm sure most of you have had this happen before. Not so with the new DRC's. Someone coined the phrase DRC a couple years ago referring to all the new Drywall Repair Clears. Taken from the old acrylic clear masonry primers (Benjamin Moore's comes to mind), Scotch Paints in CA developed a product called DrawTite. Several imitations appeared shortly afterwards. Sherwin sells it version of it, along with others. But Zinsser was the only one who could come up with something comparable to the original DrawTite, and overcome the distribution problems that Scotch had.
Gardz dries in half-hour or less, and won't re-wet itself. The moisture resistant surface makes it a dream to remove wallpaper from. It stinks a bit when applying, and has a learning curve in rolling a water-thin product without making a mess, but is worth it.
And to sum it up, and back up my claim, I brought pictures for proof.
This is a basic drywall patch, probably 1/8" thick blue-lid joint compound. I rolled some Gardz onto the bottom right corner, and let the roller edge draw a finger up the middle.
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After drying for 15 minutes, I primed the rest of the patch. You can see the previously primed section did not re-wet, and remained solid.
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When I install wallpaper, a primer must be used prior to hanging. As painters, we all know why it is important to prime. As a hanger, this might mean different things.
First off, a good primer will obviously help the wallcovering bond to the wall (provide 'tooth'). Second, it will help the wallcovering release from the wall when removal is performed. Third, it can provide 'slip' to a wall, helping a pasted sheet slide into place without it being stretched.
Most hangers use a water-based acrylic pre-wallcovering primer. The specs usually say to let it dry for 24 hours before initializing the next step. Hmm. How many of us apply the next coat when the primer is dry enough to touch or lightly sand. Yeah, me too.
Now this wouldn't be much of a problem for another coat of paint, but with wallcovering, it is a different scenario. Another coat of paint can be applied, and dry pretty quickly due to the evaporation of the vehicle. This doesn't strain the primer layer very much. But with a wallcovering, we are applying a much heavier/thicker layer coated with a thick, viscous paste that is water-based. On top of this, there is usually a vinyl layer hampering the drying/evaporation process. This causes the primer layer (which hasn't properly dried/cured) to basically reactivate, returning to a semi-liquid state. The paste inter-mingles with this broken-down primer, and becomes 'one'.
Add to this a little relative humidity, and a cheap builder's flat below the primer, and you got problems. We all know you can sneeze on builders flat, and it will rub off. Imagine layering on several mils of moisture, and allowing it to marinate for a day or two. Now you guys know why sometimes a 'properly prepped and primed' surface with a wallcovering can be a bear to remove.
So, to sum this up, a paperhanger looks for a fast drying primer, that won't re-wet or wet-out shortly after drying. Almost all paints or primers (acrylic or oil) will re-wet if applied to soon. I'm sure most of you have had this happen before. Not so with the new DRC's. Someone coined the phrase DRC a couple years ago referring to all the new Drywall Repair Clears. Taken from the old acrylic clear masonry primers (Benjamin Moore's comes to mind), Scotch Paints in CA developed a product called DrawTite. Several imitations appeared shortly afterwards. Sherwin sells it version of it, along with others. But Zinsser was the only one who could come up with something comparable to the original DrawTite, and overcome the distribution problems that Scotch had.
Gardz dries in half-hour or less, and won't re-wet itself. The moisture resistant surface makes it a dream to remove wallpaper from. It stinks a bit when applying, and has a learning curve in rolling a water-thin product without making a mess, but is worth it.
And to sum it up, and back up my claim, I brought pictures for proof.
This is a basic drywall patch, probably 1/8" thick blue-lid joint compound. I rolled some Gardz onto the bottom right corner, and let the roller edge draw a finger up the middle.
After drying for 15 minutes, I primed the rest of the patch. You can see the previously primed section did not re-wet, and remained solid.
nline2long:
