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I have been reading some posts on this forum about XIM products, and they seem to be gaining in popularity. I am thinking of using them for the first time on an exterior project I have coming up, and would appreciate anyone's input or thoughts about their products.
The project includes a few thousand square feet of brand new rough cut cedar shake siding. What I am thinking is that I would like to find a way to use all water clean up products if I could, but I am hesitant to stray from a solvent based primer/sealer for the cedar. So the option I am imagining is to spray prime and back brush the cedar with Peel Bond(I will add the tannin bleed stop additive) and topcoat it with two sprayed coats of latex.
The other option, which is what my instinct tells me to do, is use their solvent based primer/sealer, the 400W, and then topcoat that with two coats of latex.
Has anyone used Peelbond in the manner I am describing???
What I am most interested in is the longevity of the paint job. In my experience, the problems with cedar start when the primer or topcoat begins to fail and/or crack. Since I am the one applying it, I know that the topcoat will not be the problem, so the only thing I have to worry about is tannin bleed and adhesion of the primer. I want to go the route that will give me the longest life and least chance for adhesion problems w/ the primer.
I have had great success with traditional oil primers in the past, but I am trying to open myself up to the idea that Peelbond is the way to go. The main advantage would be that if it performs the same as oil, I won't have to mess around with solvents anymore. That would be a huge plus.
The project includes a few thousand square feet of brand new rough cut cedar shake siding. What I am thinking is that I would like to find a way to use all water clean up products if I could, but I am hesitant to stray from a solvent based primer/sealer for the cedar. So the option I am imagining is to spray prime and back brush the cedar with Peel Bond(I will add the tannin bleed stop additive) and topcoat it with two sprayed coats of latex.
The other option, which is what my instinct tells me to do, is use their solvent based primer/sealer, the 400W, and then topcoat that with two coats of latex.
Has anyone used Peelbond in the manner I am describing???
What I am most interested in is the longevity of the paint job. In my experience, the problems with cedar start when the primer or topcoat begins to fail and/or crack. Since I am the one applying it, I know that the topcoat will not be the problem, so the only thing I have to worry about is tannin bleed and adhesion of the primer. I want to go the route that will give me the longest life and least chance for adhesion problems w/ the primer.
I have had great success with traditional oil primers in the past, but I am trying to open myself up to the idea that Peelbond is the way to go. The main advantage would be that if it performs the same as oil, I won't have to mess around with solvents anymore. That would be a huge plus.