210 is way to big for that kind of material and surface. I do not like anything 2xx for reasons of paint concentration over a small space 2-4". I prefer 3xx for everything. That said, I use 310 for primer on horizontal doors, and 308 for primer on cabinet boxes. I use 308 for topcoat horizontal, and 306 for boxes. Spraying boxes is hard. Watching videos will not give you any good advice as most guys go full trigger and 90 at a corner. What I do is spray the inside lips first with inside of open cabinets as well, also the kickplates at the bottom and any sides of false drawer fronts. Then after 15-20 minutes, spray all the faces and sides, just using vertical strokes with the fan going horizontal, gun straight up. This way I am not overlapping other than my normal passes. I also try and full trigger stopping at the bottom if I need to to keep any spitting off the faces. This works good for me, as I cannot keep cabinet finishes from running if I try and do everything at the same time. Also, make a spray plan before you start. Like where you should start and finish to keep the line off your finish. Also any connecting cabinets from top to bottom will make for a unique transition.

 

You know, I was wondering if the tip was inappropriate. That’s probably the one and only variable that I did not alter throughout the whole process. When you say you think the 2xx tip is too big for that application, do you mean too high of a material concentration? I figured it would a good bet for the frames but I do often read that the 3xx is a go-to.

I like your approach—kind of relies on not trying to do too much at once. Funny, on my last coat I actually employed that one-direction technique, planned the spray so that I’d end up only overlapping my previous run just like you said. Kept the gun a bit further from the cabinets, too. Figured that would be the money technique. Nope. Started sagging yet again.

 

You may already know this but for tips and sizing. The first number is the fan width, usually double, so for a 2xx its 4", then the preceding numbers are the orifice size. So for you a 210, is a 0.010" That means very little except smaller hole, less material when the gun is triggered. Numbers that are even, are double orifice tips, meaning there is a small pre-orifice in the back of the tip, then the actual tip that cuts the shape in the front. An odd number is just a regular tip, no pre-orifice in the back. Double orifice tips are just what you need for fine finishing. Regular tips for spraying primer, flats, wall finishes.

So the most important part is no matter what size of x10 you have, it is the same amount of material spread across the fan width. So for a 210, that amount equates to some gallon per minute number, see graco chart for it. But with a 310, the fluid amount is the same but spread over a distance 50% greater. With a 410, that amount is spread over 100% greater and so on. I'm going to assume you are fairly new to spraying, which is fine, but you get better with more practice obviously. It is hard to recreate a job scenerio at home, just playing around.

Hope this helps, shoot me an IM if you have questions.

 

Perfect. Thanks for the info. Executing and comparing notes is the key, especially with us always working with such a spectrum of deadlines, materials, tools, clients, etc. No growth in the comfort zone, no comfort in the growth zone.

 

@MikeCalifornia
I've challenged myself to venture into spraying (with what I have equipment-wise, what to actually invest in and being more of a decorative artist/handwork person from the start)the last few years...thanks for those posts...truly.

 

Everything @MikeCalifornia said is dead on. And I would just add there is a product by Renner called 'Superhang' that does just that. First time I've seen an airless applied water-based paint dry down tight and truly resemble a factory finish on verticals. The only hassle is you have to order in the mail but once you get that figured out it will make you look good.

 

I have never heard of that product yet, but I use Envirolak and add the thickner to my batch when spraying the cabinets, and it works very well.

 

Never heard of either of those but noted for sure. Definitely doesn’t look like they’re sold anywhere local, though I was able to find the renner online. We do have local hardware stores that focus quite a bit on Ben Moore so maybe it would be worth it to get a product/application system down with it. Also hear good things about SW emerald urethane

 

I used Benjamin Moore Scuff-x for a couple years and had pretty good results. I would definitely use that over Emerald. Emerald stays tacky for too long. If you do use Sherwin check out the new Gallery series, it's a spin-off from a product called Sayerlack and superior to both Scuff-X and Emerald for cabinetry. More on par with what you would get from Renner, etc.

I hear you on using locally owned stores that use BM, I do a majority of my business with them, mainly for that reason that they're local. But after doing enough kitchens and experimenting with some of these online products I realized they were much more suitable for cabinets, both in durability and finish look. Now if you an AAA setup you can probably get a comparable looking finish with the off the shelf stuff, but I'm airless only for now.

 

Learning a ton here. Admittedly, I had never even heard of AAA systems before this thread. Did some research on them and they do sound like a badass thing to have.

Almost all of my spraying has been airless exterior but I do a lot of finish carpentry which often includes cabinetry and trim assemblies so I’m wondering if HVLP would be worth a shot.

 

Learning a ton here. Admittedly, I had never even heard of AAA systems before this thread. Did some research on them and they do sound like a badass thing to have.

Almost all of my spraying has been airless exterior but I do a lot of finish carpentry which often includes cabinetry and trim assemblies so I’m wondering if HVLP would be worth a shot.

Again it depend what products you plan on using. Right tool for the job ..

 

We often spray the boxes with an HVLP. If you have it dialed in, you can move pretty quick with it. Plus, it is so versatile. You can make adjustments on the fly. I have a remote pot that we use with it probably half the time, depending on the kitchen. It's nice to not have to deal with the cup. I usually use an airless on the doors. For doors, the time savings adds up.

 

I like your approach on this. I have thought of doing the same thing. My only concern is having to to thin the paint so much for the hvlp which may end up looking different than the doors, unless you thinned everything the same..

 

Not to hijack this thread but since RESPEC mentioned they spray boxes with HVLP this brings up a question I have and maybe the OP will get something out of it.
There are times when I need to spray a small quantity of WB product. An example is a project I completed 6 months ago, 11' built in cabinets/TV unit. Customer had some damage and now I need to replace some shelving, crown and a couple of doors. I hate the thought of dragging out my airless and would prefer using HVLP for this process but I'm not equipped for that and I'm not investing in a 5 stage turbo unit but I would invest in a bigger compressor if I needed it and a good gun/regulator/filter setup. Can you HVLP users fill me in on what I need compressor wise, reasonable cost gun, etc. Can I use a gravity feed? OR would a cup gun be better? Am I thinning wb products like Advance, Command, etc? Then I could spray clear finishes such as General Finishes High Performance or Enduro clear poly
Thanks for your help.

 

What kind of gun and model?

 

Those of you spraying HVLP, what size compressor do you have? Mine is 30gal, 5scfm @40 psi but most guns require 9-10 cfm. Can I function even on smaller projects?

 

I think they are talking about the turbine driven models, not just the hvlp guns.

 

All I can add here, is that for good atomization of waterborne paint, turbine HVLP is still cumbersome compared to airless/AAA.

I have had great success on a number of kitchen paint/repaints with the ED 655. Most standard kitchens require at most a gallon or two, and the doors are usually done off-site or in an on-site portable booth situation. The unit seldom gets close to overheating.

The ED 655 is very light, powerful enough, and super easy to clean.

If using with a reversible tip set-up, one has to be careful about 'gun spit'. This means careful planning of stops and starts when doing the boxes. While I think the Tri Tech tips have somewhat superior spray pattern to Graco or Titan, the spit that occurs when triggering 'off' is a bit more noticeable than the Graco FFLP tips.

One workaround is to invest in a Graco clean-shot fixture, and learn how to optimize it with the coatings you like to spray.

The only downside to this piece of gear is that it makes the gun a little longer, and bulkier, which can be tricky inside smaller cabinet boxes.

Latest piece of technology on stage is the Graco Ultra Quick Shot. If it delivers on the promises, it could become the new standard for kitchen painting - maybe boxes only and standard airless for your doors if necessary.

 

The ed655 is a great

I’m ultra skeptical about the Graco Ultra Quick Shot. I’ve had several Graco handhelds, and they all ended up in the garbage. I like the idea of the DeWalt battery platform, but they weren’t durable, too many problems spraying,and not serviceable. How is the build construction different on these than the Pro Shots- it has a lot of plastic, can it be taken apart?

 

308 fflp on all things waterborne. Read spec sheets for material, split max wet mills in 1/2ish if spraying vertical. Practice and test. A new beast is a new battle.

 

I'm going to grab one of these and give it a try for cabinets and airless.

Amazon.com

 

I have one, and it works, although there is a bit of a trick to dialing in the setting on the valve. The other issue, is that it does add about four inches to the gun which reduces mobility inside small boxes.

Think I need to spend a bit of time on optimization.

 

513 is friggin massive for cabs. Only way I'd consider using it would be if I were spraying something like a master closet or pantry with huge open built-ins. Beyond that, there's too much paint getting on things that I don't want it on. I wouldn't reach for a tip starting with the number 5 for cabs though, ever. That's just me. Not saying my way is right and others are wrong at all. Many ways to get to the finish line.

 

I use 306 as well for topcoat and 308 for primer. Never get runs and use renner 765 and you will be just fine