Pull the door, sand, finish with corotech command and youll be done in a day.

 

But won't there be an adhesion issue as it is water-borne going over oil? Or is this not an issue if it's a urethane somehow?

 

Usually the by the book solution is oil primer + whatever latex you want. Other bonding primers or paints may or may not work with enough scuffing, but the reason oil primers are still around is that it will always work in an oil over oil scenario.

That said, if I was to bet on a water based product as a bonding primer it would probably be Insl-X Aqualock. I used that plus BM Aura Exterior on a bunch of garage doors with a likely oil based very slick coating just washed down without sanding at all and it couldn't be fingernailed off in an hour and a half or so. Oil is a lot slower to actually cure up imo, but oil and BIN have the advantage of truly sanding to powder once they cure up in a day or so, whereas most latex primers don't sand as well as oil. I didn't try sanding Aqualock but it did level really well, better than most low VOC oils which level pretty terribly now.

For going right over it with paint, obviously every paint company in the USA will sell you a paint they claim can do it, but I think unless you've personally tried them yourself over oil you can't make a judgment ultimately. If your friends' house is somewhere they won't be too upset at you over mediocre adhesion, you can try stuff out there, but I'd not do it on a stranger's house, if that makes any sense. As in, try out a paint I've never used before without a primer over oil.

 

Usually the by the book solution is oil primer + whatever latex you want. Other bonding primers or paints may or may not work with enough scuffing, but the reason oil primers are still around is that it will always work in an oil over oil scenario.

That said, if I was to bet on a water based product as a bonding primer it would probably be Insl-X Aqualock. I used that plus BM Aura Exterior on a bunch of garage doors with a likely oil based very slick coating just washed down without sanding at all and it couldn't be fingernailed off in an hour and a half or so. Oil is a lot slower to actually cure up imo, but oil and BIN have the advantage of truly sanding to powder once they cure up in a day or so, whereas most latex primers don't sand as well as oil. I didn't try sanding Aqualock but it did level really well, better than most low VOC oils which level pretty terribly now.

For going right over it with paint, obviously every paint company in the USA will sell you a paint they claim can do it, but I think unless you've personally tried them yourself over oil you can't make a judgment ultimately. If your friends' house is somewhere they won't be too upset at you over mediocre adhesion, you can try stuff out there, but I'd not do it on a stranger's house, if that makes any sense. As in, try out a paint I've never used before without a primer over oil.

There are many acrylic primers that are designed to stick to oil paints. Inslx Stix, UMA, Kilz Adhesion. They are all fantastic. Aqua lock isn't really designed as a bonding primer. However, Like Coco said, the new Chorotech Command was designed for this scenario in mind. I never really understood how they say you can't paint latex over an oil paint but can paint latex on an oil primer..

 

If you want to be by the book, there are fast drying oil primers that you can recoat in an hour.

 

Good ole shellac is the worlds oldest and greatest primer? If you have a good horse, run him.

 

I would simulate a blocking test at home, using whatever coating system you prefer.

 

Clean it, sand it to 180, rattle can it with solvent based bonding primer, sand primer and shoot two coats of WB commercial enamle, done in half a day.

 

I found that aqua lock benefits big time from 24 hours before top coating.

 

Start by cutting around hinges, knobs, and hardware with a brush. An angle sash brush is perfect for those areas. If your door has panels or windows, work from the top down in those areas. Use a roller on flat areas of the door and make sure you roll in the same direction as the grain. First, paint the center of any panel. Then paint the vertical piece running up the center of the door. The horizontal sections of the door are next. Followed by the outer edges. The sides of the door are saved for last. If you have one color on the inside and another color on the outside you want the door to appear to be all one color as it opens. So, for the door that swings to the inside paint the hinge edge with the outside color. The edge with the knobs and the locks should be the same as the inside color. After the paint is dry apply a second coat for an even finish and you're done! Make sure the second coat dries before closing the door. Avoid adding any hooks or wreaths to the door for 24 hours.

Or you could take the door knob off. [emoji33]


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