I have a 1400 square foot mostly open commercial space of standard-sized square tiles to remove and spray with one good coat, color is going from standard off white to a light tan, so we're looking to sneak by with on ecoat. Grid is also to be sprayed. I've never done anything like this so I'm having difficulty gauging a quote. Anyone with experience who can give me some guidance in the time consumption for this kind of project so I can come up with some numbers? Thanks.
Drop Ceiling Spray Job
geeemqu
61 - 62 of 62 Posts
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Acoustical ceilings are different
One would think that spraying acoustic ceilings is pretty simple. If done right, it can be simple. If done wrong, it can be a nightmare.
Taking a simple standard 2X4 mineral board, flush mounted tile and spraying it white to white is generally the easiest of ceilings to do. However, add the following and the easy jobs becomes more of a challenge:
24 hour store, high ceilings, tons of lights and other ceiling fixtures to mask, signage and merchandise to protect.
These things make the simple job just a little but more like work.
Now add into the equation of color. White to black-black to white. This is where knowledge of spraying acoustic tiles really comes in to play.
Not everyone has the knowledge. Being in this business for as long as I have, I've seen some great looking ceilings and some god awful sprayed ceilings.
Additionally, not all products intended for acoustic ceilings are alike or even meant for an acoustic ceiling. If you think they are, then you may want to brush up on the subject. A flat latex paint is not an acoustic coating. A watered down flat latex paint is not an acoustic coating. One of the basic fundamental ingredients that should tell you that paint is not meant for acoustic ceilings is binder. Certain binders in paint do what binders are supposed to do-bind, bridge a gap. Paint a window frame and molding at the same time with a supposed acoustic coating and see what happens. Bet you will need a blade to break the bridge caused by the binder in paint.
The same thing happens on an acoustic tile surface. The holes, fissures-microscopic and visible to the eye get filled in with paint. The bridging properties of the paint close up those holes and fissures, thereby reducing the sound absorbency of the acoustic surface. This applies to any acoustic surface-blown on, popcorn, and mineral board tile etc.
Anyone telling you differently is simply uneducated about acoustical surfaces and the effect paint has on them.
To learn more about the only real acoustical coating, go on line and type in a search for acoustical ceiling restoration, or ask your Sherwin Williams paint dealer/rep to call his 800 hotline number. Then you will get the right product for the right surface.
Thanks and have a great day
One would think that spraying acoustic ceilings is pretty simple. If done right, it can be simple. If done wrong, it can be a nightmare.
Taking a simple standard 2X4 mineral board, flush mounted tile and spraying it white to white is generally the easiest of ceilings to do. However, add the following and the easy jobs becomes more of a challenge:
24 hour store, high ceilings, tons of lights and other ceiling fixtures to mask, signage and merchandise to protect.
These things make the simple job just a little but more like work.
Now add into the equation of color. White to black-black to white. This is where knowledge of spraying acoustic tiles really comes in to play.
Not everyone has the knowledge. Being in this business for as long as I have, I've seen some great looking ceilings and some god awful sprayed ceilings.
Additionally, not all products intended for acoustic ceilings are alike or even meant for an acoustic ceiling. If you think they are, then you may want to brush up on the subject. A flat latex paint is not an acoustic coating. A watered down flat latex paint is not an acoustic coating. One of the basic fundamental ingredients that should tell you that paint is not meant for acoustic ceilings is binder. Certain binders in paint do what binders are supposed to do-bind, bridge a gap. Paint a window frame and molding at the same time with a supposed acoustic coating and see what happens. Bet you will need a blade to break the bridge caused by the binder in paint.
The same thing happens on an acoustic tile surface. The holes, fissures-microscopic and visible to the eye get filled in with paint. The bridging properties of the paint close up those holes and fissures, thereby reducing the sound absorbency of the acoustic surface. This applies to any acoustic surface-blown on, popcorn, and mineral board tile etc.
Anyone telling you differently is simply uneducated about acoustical surfaces and the effect paint has on them.
To learn more about the only real acoustical coating, go on line and type in a search for acoustical ceiling restoration, or ask your Sherwin Williams paint dealer/rep to call his 800 hotline number. Then you will get the right product for the right surface.
Thanks and have a great day
Joined
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226 Posts
am i the only 1 who when i see a drop down celling where the tiles and T bar go same color smile? Once of the easiest celeing imho. i just dryfall flat and walk away like a boss. if the celling has alot of water damage than just spray it in dryfall flat oil. Key here is dryfall is cheap and pretty much sticks to anything when u spray. Dry fall covers dust dirt even rust most times. But hey thats just me.
61 - 62 of 62 Posts
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