[finishesbykevyn]

Is the issue that the top coat won't stick to the t-9000 then? I remember experimenting with the 170 primer, have you used that one as well? I think I was spraying top coat right over it, although I've only used Envirolack products as experiment pieces and not on full jobs.

I remember it all laying down really nice through the airless though. Although I think the t-9000 might have given me some issues, but I don't recall what they were now. But I believe that's a tannin-blocking 1K right?

Im not sure why, but the Tds states that the 100 series(tintable base) will not adhere to the t9000. (Which is a 1k bonding primer,yes and is a non tintable white.). The 170 and 180 are mostly for new wood unless catalyzed.. So if you are "re-finishing" in 1k deep base colour, you are suppose to go t9000 for bonding, then 180 tinted to topcoat colour, then 100 series for a proper 1k system. Or 180 series catalyzed, then 100 topcoat..

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Im just using the 170TB or 180 with crosslinker, crosshatched. Then two coats of 200 series poly with crosslinker.

For new stock or re-finishes? Stefan tells me the 170 and 180 are not "Bonding" primers without the 100 catalyst.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Well there is no way you could ever use the 100 catalyst on a real job, it kicks off way too fast for finishing 40 or more doors. Maybe in a small cup gun like their videos, but not on a full size job. Who wants to mix super small batches? That is why I use the cross linker. I have never had a problem with adhesion over lacquer or whatever finish is on there. Plus its all my distributer carries anyway.

Good to know. Are you not using the T9000 primer? It's a deadly bonding 1k when using 200 or 800 series as topcoat..
I agree about the catalyst. You would literally have to clean your machine between coats. Such a pain.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Envirolak 170 primer and 170TB are high solids (70% by weight) water based primers that provide an excellent foundation for solid colors on MDF, solid wood, or for refinishing.
170 primer can be used on solid wood, or for refinishing applications as a 2K when mixed 3-5% with CAT100-LV hardener to improve adhesion, moisture resistance, and durability. 170 can be used as a 1K without catalyst directly over MDF.
If you are not using 170 primer on new MDF, it needs be catalyzed at a minimum of 3% with CAT100-LV hardener. 170 will block tannins with 2 coats when catalyzed.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Im just using the 170TB or 180 with crosslinker, crosshatched. Then two coats of 200 series poly with crosslinker.

So you're spraying the 180 with crosslinker with an airless? On boxes and doors for refinishing and no troubles yet? Are you spraying 100 series over that? Doing some more testing in the shop. Having a hard time coming to terms with using 2 primers..

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Only 180 for neutral base primer, otherwise 170tb for white. No problems to speak of, the only exception is going over greasy cabinets that we couldn't get totally clean like in the little grooves of the panels. The polys crack and will not bridge over this. I have just scraped the section out with a small pick then caulked in with fast dry. I have only used the 200 series finish with crosslinker. My first job was straight out of the can, no crosslinker, kind of a darker color for white base, over a period of a few months it started leaving water marks from the sink that didn't seem to wipe out. The finish was fine but water marks made a lighter appearance. Never have used without crosslinker since.

Ok. Good to know. As I said, the tds says it's supposed to be catalyzed for refinishes, but testing is the real deal. It seems redundant to prime with 2 different primers when going to a dark tone, especially if if the wood is already dark.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

So I did my first complete kitchen job with the T9000/800 series in CC-40 Cloud White. Couple things I noticed. First off, The finished product is next level in hardness and durability. It really is. However, when I was testing in the shop, it was with untinted white, straight from the can. I had it tinted to CC-40 with Gennex colourant. For some reason, after it was tinted, the covering properties were not as good, and had trouble with the product looking a little patchy with the spray pattern. Hard to explain, but even with 2 coats with perfect 50% overlap it looked a little patchy, but only at a certain angle.. I'm pretty sure no one except me will notice, but it is concerning to me.. Graco 490 Airless 208fflp tip.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

I wonder how/if Envirolak's colorants are equal/similar/differing to Gennex and if that would influence what you saw...

Ya, hard to say. At first, I chalked it up to dry spray on the first. So I put the second coat on a little heavier making sure to have good overlap having a complete wet surface and same thing after it dried. The sheen also seemed a little less than the straight white. This is an enclosed shop with ventilation, 20 deg. C. 55% humity. 🤷‍♀️

 

[finishesbykevyn]

Normally just warm water is fine. Although, Envirolak recommends their EnviroKlean for tips etc. I wouldn't bother with the 100 Hardener personally. Just use the crosslinker. It'll be bullet proof and no real pot life..

Are there any special cleaning steps people take when using the 100 or 3000 clear with the 100 hardener? I tested it by brushing some panels (brushed well, actually), and after thoroughly cleaning the brushes they were rock hard the next day. I was able to eventually break up the bristles but the brush es were more stiff than they were before and they were still clearly some product on them. It got me thinking that it might require an additional cleaning product besides water when cleaning the pump, hose, and gun.