After you properly prep everything. You can use Kilz Max and then use any paint you want.

I have used it a lot as an undercoater before painting with BM Advance.

 

Thanks so much for the quick reply and tip on Kilz Max ReNt A PaInTeR.
Would you still sand and clean the trim/doors first? Or would a coat of the primer be enough before I painted?
Thanks again!

 

Nothing replaces the importance of sanding if you're transitioning from oil to latex. You could go a little lighter on the sanding as long as you've knocked the gloss off, and clean with Krud Cutter or liquid sanding de-glosser. Anything else is a gamble in regards to longevity IMO.

 

I would(personally) use a better primer, but that's just me.

 

Uh oh someone got sand in his vagina because is sold at HD. :whistling2:

 

There are so many paints now that are water soluble that u can go right onto the oil with dedicating a primer coat is a waste.
Pro industrial. Go right on it. Light sand it if u want to. But. It's gonna grab and it's not coming off. I promise.

 

I can tell you first hand that's not true. Did a job in January liquid de-glossed and used Pro-Industrial. Guess who's going back to scrape and sand it all off. This guy, never again shoulda known better. :vs_cry:

 

Not trying to be a smarta$$ here, but the cost of prepping and cleaning should be figured into the job. Trying to shortcut around proper prep leads to some sad results, whether you're using a primer or not.

 

I can tell you first hand that's not true. Did a job in January liquid de-glossed and used Pro-Industrial. Guess who's going back to scrape and sand it all off. This guy, never again shoulda known better. :vs_cry:

I find it hard to beleive, we use it all of the time now, right now actually.
It's kinda a issue for us over the years. The oil change thing. Virtually all of the trim we deal with. Repaint wize, was done in oil, not some of it. All of it, commercial it was all anybody used. The switchover was a mess,
The pro industrial I just know it grabs.
Now. We don't I have never actually used a deglosser. I dunno. Maybe there is the jamb up? Truthfully. Prep is most often a light sand with a duster.
And hey. I don't 'really care' I just hate to see the fellas killing themselves over nothing. Wasting a whole coat? Pretty big
The oil to water based thing hasn't been a issue for years now
I'd look at the deglosser I really would. You don't need it, therefore? It can only hurt you.
Light sand. Dust and paint,

 

Yeah who knows it could have been something in the deglosser that didn't play nice idk.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk

 

I wisht come clean up time. It didn't stick so good. Haha
My hands I gotta scrub em raw to get most of it off
Serious

 

Imo this is the best latex conversion primer out there

 

Anyone ever try Multipurpose from sherwin? Just curious. We used it to go over some existing oil finish and it worked well, but small amounts here and there, don't know if that tells a true story.

Stuff is good for even pvc...so maybe?

I agree XIM makes good stuff, period.

 

I had a buddy of mine that had to repaint an entire house using that stuff wood.

 

I sand everything I paint.

 

Krud Cutter gloss off works great you will notice it leaves the surface tacky. Did a bunch of doors were oil deglossed and put on precat epoxy. The turned out great and held up.

 

California Ultraplate if you can get it. Thirty one years selling paint and it is the only paint i have every seen that can stick right on glossy alkyd paint without a primer.
My sales floor displays were painted with gloss Rustoleum 10-15 years ago at a previous paint store. When i bought them i cleaned them, lightly sanded them, and put a coat of Ultraplate on them. I defy anyone to get it to peel off. I have had twenty to thirty painting contractors try and fail. It is a urethane modified acrylic and any of you that have used the XIM UMA already know how well that resin package works. The Ultraplate and cali's Grip Coat primer use the same UMA resins.

 

Both those Cali products are a awesome

 

Anybody have recent experience with Gripper--over oil? I remember using it many, many moons ago when it first hit the shelves....ho wanted it on her tile. I was skeptical to say the least but was very impressed at the bond (it was bonded when I got paid anyway...no idea how it held up over the years..lol) I've been thinking about using it again as sw no longer carries xim...and it is less expensive. No real comparison, I suppose but, hey-thought I'd throw it out to you guys. Now I'm bracing for the backlash (duck and cover!!)

 

Gripper is good. But I prefer coverstain over oil, then my acrylic. I've never had gripper fail on me, but I personally prefer coverstain

 

gripper is Ok , but this is just as good(if not better)

 

I recently did a test using multiple primers on a metal door that had been painted with Industrial Enamel and still had a high gloss finish. Gripper, 123, Seal Grip all performed about the same on the next day scratch test. UMA took a little more effort to scratch off. SW Procryl would not scratch off even with a 5 in 1.

 

You just called in the dogs my friend! Run for your life!!!!!!!...!!!

 

Heres a tidbit for anyone interested. Sw has come up with their own version of xim. Saw it on the shelf today. I know it's comparable and is just as good as xim in the bonding dept. A few months ago I was asked to demo the prototype on the tiles in front of the store. (Been nagging them for a while to get rid of the gawd awful green tiles that sooo didnt match anything else, haha)Did half with xim. Half with the science lab stuff (new sw product) sw brand was a little heavier bodied and wasn't AS smooth as xim but a good product imo. 1 hr later, tried scratching both off with a key. Then a 5n1...wouldn't budge. They may have tweeked a few things before it hit the shelves, not sure...interested in trying it again though. I've stuck to xim (it's expensive tho) on some things, but just wondering about how you guys deal with conversion. Sounds like we're all still in the same boat. I haven't seen seal grip in a while. I forgot that I really liked that product...there's gotta be a less expensive way that's comparable to coverstain in the $ dept.. .HO's aren't excited about oil usually..especially with Littles around. Thanks for the input!

 

What about Aqualock? It's made to be put on oil, did the conversion just fine for me. I did degrease with a non rince product, then pole sanded the walls, but not the trim. Haven't had a peeling problem. If I really wanted to make even more sure, then stix would be more adhering. What do you guys think of that?

 

I just recently tried Frazee Aro-thane from Sherwin Williams to try to skip the priming process for converting oil to water base and it worked great. I did a exterior siding job and I sprayed a interior kitchen inside and outside of the cabinets as well after sanding off the gloss of course and it worked great. They picked a pure white for the trim so that was 3 coats mandatory to look right .

 

In a no prep conversion I use coverstain. No sanding or cleaning necessary.

 

Try PPG Break-Through. Literally sticks to everything.

http://www.dulux.ca/PPG/Dulux/Media...ulux/Media/brochures/BreakThrough-Introduction-SellSheet-FINAL-ENG.pdf?ext=.pdf

 

Advamce has a primer that is a hybrid oil base

 

Stix is my new go to..surreal adhesion..