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Re-Finishing - Solid Stain - Prep and Application Advice

6.8K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  Wildbill7145  
#1 ·
Hi I am new to this forum, and staining. The only deck I've built was out of cedar and I left it go natural and have really liked it. Recently I purchased a property with 3 wood sided structures. The siding and deck are both stained in a solid and (what I think) is an oil based stain. One was built in the 60's and the others in 1980. The property is north of North Bay Ontario Canada and sees temperatures extremes typically between -35C to 35C. - 40C is possible.

Based on the lack of maintenance I've been impressed with how well the deck and siding stain has held up. The deck is experiencing typical wear but is actually in very good shape with little flaking. Only where the rain water from roof falls (there are no eves troughs) is the stain beginning to lift away from the wood. Some of the siding has cracks in it, but this is minimal. Some of the trim on the structures needs filling and or caulking. The siding has mildew on it in places. I have a box of reasonably colour matched Mulco Supra Expert I plan to use where caulk around trim is needed. I have purchased a Titan XT 250 to help with the application of the stain.

I realize prep and proper application is crucial, as well as the selection of the right product. I am thinking of SW "SuperDeck Exterior Waterborne Solid Color Deck Stain". For the siding I am considering either BM Arbour Coat or
or SW "WoodScapes Exterior Acrylic Solid Color House Stain".

For prep, the tools I have are a 15A electric pressure washer with a detergent hopper, a misting sprayer, a garden hose sprayer, a random orbital sander, and a 15A leaf blower.

What I need advice on:

FILLER - For any cracks. I saw on youtube a guy filling ALEX caulk and or brushed on elastomeric product for the worst parts of a facia.

WASHING - Product to use and method on cleaning mildew / oxidization / other. Ideally I'd like to save some money by mixing my own cleaner, but I'm not sure what mix would be ideal, or if this is a good idea verses simply purchasing a commercial cleaner.

SANDING - I will use a dust mask. Lead is a real possibility. I think 80 grit on a random orbital. Where any serious flaking is I plan to scrape or pressure wash.

REMOVING SANDING DUST - Plan to use a 15A leaf flower, maybe rinse with water from a garden hose sprayer.

MOISTURE - I have a wood moisture meter on order.

TAPING - There are some great rollers out there that allow you to tape off windows and trim efficiently. I don't have one yet - please advise.

APPLICATION - Use of paint sprayer with back-brushing with a quality brush, will follow weather instructions on stain container very closely. No sun. I plan on back brushing after spraying.

This will be a lot of time and money for me, and I'm keenly interested in getting this application close to the quality of the original stain application which has stood the test of time. I appreciate any advice on method and products, as well as order of operations.
 
#2 ·
Stick with oil based stains for deck, unless you like peeling. Waterborne is film forming, and all film forming stains will fail on horizontal surfaces*. Please use an oil based stain like Cabot's (or similar) Use: semi transparent for new decks, semi-solid oil stain for worn decks, and solid oil based stain for heavily weathered decks, or where you want a painted look.

Should be brushed on using a deck brush mounted on a pole. Start at back of deck (next to house) and work towards the exit. take 2-3 boards across length of deck, and repeat.

Pressure wash and clean the deck with water (soft wash) do not damage boards. Run bleach and jomax downstream if you have a mildew issue. allow the mixture to sit for fifteen minutes and rinse with clean water. If mildew staining is bad use a stiff bristle brush to work the solution into the wood. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. I prefer to do this on rainy days, or when the deck is wet, so it doesn't dry too quickly and surrounding plant life is protected.

Allow deck to dry for 7-10 days.

Only stain when no rain us forecast for at least 2 days. Only 1 coat is recommended. Repeat in 3-5 years, or when stain shows visible wear, and is no longer beading water.

*latex stains are great for siding, but not for decks.
 
#3 ·
For siding: SW Woodscapes is fine. I do not have access to BM (so not familiar with it), but if it is latex Solid Stain it is probably fine- equivalent to Woodscapes.

Soft wash house same time as you are cleaning the deck. Treat mildew same as deck. Allow to dry.

Caulk with paintable latex caulk.

Depending on width of you siding, you can spray then back-roll with a 4" mini roller, or whatever size matches width of siding.

Or - Hire a professional, like this site is designed for.
 
#4 ·
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