Never used Stix primer before but have heard guys talk about it here. Went to HD for Wooster frames and saw they had a closeout sale on Stix at $9.00 a gallon:thumbup:. Bought last eight gallons they had. Now, was reading surface prep instructions. Surface must be free of any dirt, grease, oil, wax, soap residue, chalk, old paint, and other foreign matter. Remove grease and oil with lacquer solvent. Wash surface with strong detergent. Reduce any gloss by sanding. Remove sanding dust. Seal wood knots with shellac, and so on. If one would prep any surface as instructed above, what the hell would you need this or any primer for?(with the exception of needing holdout) Surfaces as prepped above would be ideal for straight paint. To me to do all this work for the primer negates the need for primer. Bought it mainly for adhesion to glossy surfaces. I'll stick to oil or Bullseye 123 for glossy surfaces without sanding or etching. These two have never failed me in all my years. Just a thought.
Stix Primer Useless?
loaded brush
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0 stain blocking. Great adhesion.
I guess the BM store was wrong. I didn't see it saying stain blocking so I wasn't sure. Good thing these are sample doors I'm doing and not a customers.
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I just used Stix on some golden oak spindles and was ready for serious bleed through. However after I sanded. I shopvac'd each spindle followed by an alcohol wipe (rags were massively orange after that). Once dry hvlp'd a thin dust coat of Stix. Not a hint of bleed through, and couldn't scratch it off after 10 minutes. Currently (today) spraying bm black jack using advanced.
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Looks fantastic! We've had a recent discussion about painting oak with the grain showing through. Some like it, some don't. I feel it makes painting oak with the grain showing through look elegant, as your picture proves.
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Danahy said:
That does look nice! I would think that the existing finish had already blocked the stain for the most part. That's been my experience when painted previously finished wood work, stain bleed is usually not an issue.
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Anybody used STIX on gloss ceramic bath tile? I tried SW Extreme Bond water based primer on a sample tile and both sanded and non scratched off with my thumbnail.
I want to put a single component water epoxy over whatever primer will stick to the tile.
I want to put a single component water epoxy over whatever primer will stick to the tile.
In general, your bonding primers should not be great at blocking stains. After all, better bonding = less pigment (higher resin concentration), whereas better stain blocking requires a significant amount of pigment. That's why sometimes you will see semi-opaque primers or even clears specifically for bonding. Slow oils (aka long oils) block stains the best provided it's not a solvent based stain (you always use the opposite).
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If you look at a thread I started a few months ago I put it on some tile baseboards in my home. They weren't really glossy/shiny but I did zero prep and they bonded perfectly
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Yeah the STIX primer sticks pretty well. Imagine that? But it doesn't seal stains......hmm.
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BUT....It's not advertised as a stain blocker [emoji14]
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Possibly there was some residual release wax on the fiberglass. As with a boat mold, a release agent is used to enhance the release of the gel coat and mold. Always wipe new columns first before priming to remove wax and other contaminants. De-natured alcohol works best or aesetone. Coating did not bond entirely so rain made film expand and slip on surface causing moisture to intrude and cause bubbles. I think?
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I just did a set of these in a junk box house. I sanded them all with 220 and went straight to advance in Oxford white. No primer at all, came back next day and couldn't even scratch it off, was on there good and tight.
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Really? Do you have proof?
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You're thinking of the Wal-Mart documentary and Rubbermaid products....It would be a logistical nightmare to produce lesser quality primer for one vendor....PLUS do you really think BM wants to risk their reputation by playing games with HOME DEPOT inventory pricing ?
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