I've found I get the smoothest finishes by using a good leveling paint and getting it applied correctly with less tooling. I have sprayed enamel walls without back rolling, for an extra smooth finish. But it is difficult to get it even enough to not show lines/ laps. If you do back roll, do it minimally and in one direction.
I think the key will be letting the material 'flow out' rather than trying to tool it smooth.
I've wondered what something like pro-classic would look like sprayed on walls.
Sounds like a challenge, would like to see how it turns out.

 

I've wondered what something like pro-classic would look like sprayed on walls.

Looks awesome! Feels awesome, IS awesome. Did a whole garage with it as well as a living room/dining room with it. If you load it up it's super smooth.

prime/spray, sanding wasn't even necessary, just make sure there isn't dust on the walls.

I'll have to post pictures some time.

 

Ultraplate would probably work. Satin finish.

 

Was planning on Pro Plastercoat primer and Cashmere top coats.

 

Why are you thinking about backrolling? What sheen?

 

This job would look elite sprayed in Advance satin...

 

Welcome back Jack!

 

I once did a Ritz Carlton 900 rooms or so. They were VERY particular about how they wanted the slick walls painted. We sprayed high build primer. sanded , used versasatin from dunn edwards sprayed not back rolled The first coat. Sanded . Thinned down final coat to where it was just right by feel . spray guy was key to tight stipple and communication was even more key to let spray guy know to ease off or apply more.we used the white dove 3/8 roller skins also was not afraid to throw them out after a few rooms. It turned out beautiful .

 

This is just veneer plaster which is like 100% of the work in my area. We just paint it normally. Choose a paint that levels off well - Muralo Ultra would be my first choice.

 

I spray walls in my own house with an AAA just for kicks.
I have never seen smoother walls -- amazing. Partly
the sanding deserves credit...very labor intensive.

First coat SW Premium wall and wood primer, sand 120 with 6" orbital, then two coats BM regal matte, sand btw coats with 120 to 150. No backroll. I thin to 60s in a ford 4 cup. Looks amazing - like velvet. No stipple, no orange peel. I use an 813 tip (15" fan). With the older regal, I had no streaking, and I think slightly better leveling. Regal select shows some streaking, but with technique this can be overcome. Aura eggshell works well, but sags more easily than regal.
I use Kremlin, Binks, and CAT guns.

 

Why go through all the effort of sanding several times after paint etc.

Save yourself some time and just top coat it, you only have to sand once. Just an idea.

 

I have felt a primer was necessary to improve adhesion over new plaster or compound, which tends to be a little alkaline. Also, I'm using it as a surfacer to fill imperfections. But if I really don't need to for adhesion, you might have a point. Sometimes I tint the primer and use only one topcoat. Most of the time that's what I do. I'd love to avoid sanding, though.

 

We almost never sand, other than fuzz or if there might be some dirt kick up/drywall tape/damage that needs fixing.

Tinted primer (50% or 100% tint), hi-build or wasatch (SW). Put it on nice and thick, don't skimp because it's only $9 a gal (roughly) vs paint which costs more.

Put on a good thick top coat, even if you have to cross hatch while it's wet. Comes out just fine, no lines/flashing issues, and no need to sand. Walls usually come out feeling smooth, kinda like a rubberized butter.

Also depends on what tip you use too.

 

Well I always sand after priming to knock down drywall fibers from tapers burning it ...

I then check for imperfections .fix and Spot prime those areas, spray first coat of finish . Spray and backroll final coat. Comes out tits every time .

 

Simple answer: Put more paint on.

I really think a lot of painters could use this advice.
I've tried every was under the sun to make paint smooth; 1/4 in mohair, foam, sanding to death, etc.
IMO, there is nothing you can do to a paint film that will make it smoother than it will get on its own, if enough is applied and tooling is minimized.

 

Definitely good advice, except when spraying verticals...

 

Doors etc. are a bit different you don't want to load them up with tons of paint, there really isn't a need to. That's where enamels or other types of paint come in to help do that job for you. With doors/windows it's better to actually have a real nice atomized finish vs "tons" of paint.

I spray drywall (walls/ceiling) and this method works great for me. Sometimes you just have to vary the technique too, put on a thicker first coat and come back with a lighter cross hatch to eliminate any lapping.

**Forewarning: Just be careful with loading up a lot during the winter months/colder environments, runs can be an issue. Just break out the propane tanks/heaters and crank the heat up real good to get the stuff to setup, should eliminate a lot of issues/potential issues.

But in the end it's a technique thing. Experiments and have fun!