No not at all. I've been preaching this for years. Get blasted for it on Painttalk though.

But I have several painter customers who turn down any job that the HO requires a box store paint(especially Behr or SW), and they are booked through the end of the year. So there must be something to it.

And yes I did mean to put SW in with the box store paints.

 

No not at all. I've been preaching this for years. Get blasted for it on Painttalk though.

But I have several painter customers who turn down any job that the HO requires a box store paint(especially Behr or SW), and they are booked through the end of the year. So there must be something to it.

And yes I did mean to put SW in with the box store paints.

only a few

 

I think it's the responibility of the contractor to simply inform a homeowner that their company uses a preferred product, and can only gurantee that product. Anything else should void the warranty IMO. Otherwise, use the homeowner's recommendation and move on.

 

SW big box store. True stuff there. I don't have much of an option though. At least what I try to use isn't sitting on the floor for the HO to see.

 

Couple of thoughts here. Again just thoughts not an attack on anyone or any particular paint brand! If all you ever do is use whatever paint the Ho buys or wants you to use, how does that separate your company from the rest of the pack? If you insist on using brands that you feel give the ho the best paint job, sooner or later it will distinguish you from the other painter's in your market. If all you do is use the Ho's preferred paint, all you become at that point is a price. That's the only way you can distinguish your company in the eyes of the Ho's. If you provide a better finish, a more durable finish, at a price that gives your customer the best value you become in their minds a little bit above all the other painters in your area.

Also, when a HO buys the paint, don't you think that kind of reflects on what the HO thinks about you as a painter? They're kind of saying in a way that anyone can put paint on a wall and the only reason they are hiring a painter in the first place is so they don't screw it up themselves. There is certainly no reason not to capitalize on people that think this way. You can certainly make money this way. But you will always be busting your butt to find that next job.

I have had painters that were quite successful doing it both ways. Some insist on using the paint that they want to use and some will use whatever the HO wants. But from my experience the painters that can afford to buy a new van every other year are usually the ones who use particular paints and walk away from the others. The main reason being the savings in labor they pocket as opposed to the painters who routinely struggle to apply crappy paint. The choice is yours, and there is certainly no wrong way to do it. But there is a better way, and that is to use premium paint products that give the best finish and are faster and easier to apply, and to sell that as part of your overall shtick.

 

I can't imagine any painting contractor would last two years using "crappy paint".

Bottom line, BEHR is marketeed towards DIY'ers, but it's not so horrible that a painting contractor's business will collapse if they had to, or chose to, use it. IMO.

What will cripple a business, is bad management.

 

I know a couple who came close.

 

I've done countless jobs with Behr, valspar, ace, etc paint that the HO picked up. They've all looked just fine and the checks cleared so it's all good. IMO any and all $30+ interior paint will look good with 2 coats.

 

I've done countless jobs with Behr, valspar, ace, etc paint that the HO picked up. They've all looked just fine and the checks cleared so it's all good. IMO any and all $30+ interior paint will look with 2 coats.

Yup. If it doesn't, the problem is usually outside the bucket, not in it.
I have preferences. But no matter what the product is, its my responsibility to make it look great. Some things (like a sheen on smooth lids) can't look good no matter how much dough you put out on paint.

 

Kill me!

 

Quality paints aren't exclusive to one manufacturer. I use Sherwin, Miller, Kelly, Ben, and Zinsser products most of the time. But I have used and been happy with some Behr and Valspar products at times.

Part of the problem is the way big box stores market paints to consumers. "Paint and Primer in One" is an irritating example. We know it's a bull**** claim and it's our responsibility to indicate that to our customers. There are limitations to the claim their paint can be a substitute for primer over bare wood or oily stains, it's written on the back of the can! Also, our friends at the paint stores are a better source of knowledge than big box stores. Reps are easy to contact, product catalogues can be ordered, prices can be argued, etc..

As for the cost you negotiate with your suppliers that's between you and them. Some years I think I have a really good cost worked out with Sherwin then I realize I can work out a better price through Lowes who carries the same products under a different name. Paint prices and reformulations are the Wild West and things are changing all the time. I won't disqualify a certain brand based on the name alone. I'll try it, and if it's good and the price is good then we're good.
It's not personal. It's business.

There are some people on this forum who think their paint manufacturer of choice is the crown jewel of coatings and I'm telling you that it's all crap. You find good products everywhere and you use the ones you like and factor in the price you pay for them and the convenience of picking them up or having them delivered and their long term performance and durability. Don't be afraid to mark up your material costs. Every other company does it. And if the homeowner buys the paint that's fine too. Just charge for new spray tips and roller covers.

 

The marketing issue has been my big problem all along. That and the psychological marketing of way over charging on a daily basis and giving a "discount" to get people in the store. I've sold a pretty good amount of barn paint in my day and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. It's when the marketing gurus get their claws in that barn paint and make it out to be something that it never will be that causes my ire.

And Btw, The paint I sell IS the "crown jewel of paints"! It says so right on the Accolade labels! At least the older labels.

 

The lumber at the big box stores always appear nice and straight when they're strapped up like William Shatner in a man-corsette. But as soon as that thing is un banded, there are more twists, turns and bows than a Pawnee hunting party on a rugged North Dakota mountain trail.

 

The wood from some of these stores are so wet, birds perch on them to bathe.

 

There are more knots in that lumber than there are in a nervous homeowner looking for advice from PACman.

 

I've seen more splits on a BB lumber rack, than I've seen in a Richard Simmons video...:blink: It's not like I work out to them.

 

[QUOTE=PACman;1195530]You're in Eastern Oregon. That's a lot closer to where the good lumber comes from then a lot of us. The further it travels from the mills the worse it gets, Since they have to cover their transportation costs, they ship the worst lumber to the areas that have higher transportation costs. There is no way they would be able to sell the crap they sell here in most places in Ohio to someone in say, Minnesota. But I must say, the box stores are a little higher quality then the local yards. Probably because they can spread that transportation cost out over several thousand other items. The local Menard's is pretty impressive for the lumber quality they carry. Except for the trim and pre-finished/primed stuff.
The dimension wood is quite nice.[/QUOTE]

My biggest objection was to the idea that local yards can't get the same grade of lumber that the big boxes do. They may choose not to get it, for the reasons that you mentioned, but I've always found it to be available when I need it. For instance, they don't carry 6/4 clear, VG WRC, but they can get it if we need it. Their carrying costs negate stocking it due to the limited demand, but it's not unavailable to them.

 

I agree with futtyos. Any finish paint over a bare substrate, like newly taped drywall for example, is increasing the odds of compromised adhesion, in my opinion. And as far as sealers on bare drywall, I too have used Gardz, but often use other primers like Zinsser 123, BM Fresh Start, PPG Universal, and BIN for those small, or problem areas.

 

Although I will freely dispense with advice when asked, I'm just fine with DIYer's having a negative painting experience - whether it be due to the products they use or through lack of information/experience in prep and application. After one big time "sucky" project, they'll be much more likely to hire a professional the next time around.

 

and maybe go to a real paint store too!

 

And wasn't the OP asking about whether to use box store paint or not? With Marquee being one of the so called "best" of the box store paints I thought my test results would be relevant. I mean for christs sake even Promar 200 sticks to bare drywall.

 

That would be good information to homeowners.

 

I had a customer who was supposed to get BM surprise me with Olympic flat. I can honestly say I was shocked at the outcome. Covered great,applied like BM, and was a pleasure to work with. And is half the price of BM. Sandy color over a federal blue. Always do two coats but I got great coverage in one. Pleasantly surprised.

 

I had a customer who was supposed to get BM surprise me with Olympic flat. I can honestly say I was shocked at the outcome. Covered great,applied like BM, and was a pleasure to work with. And is half the price of BM. Sandy color over a federal blue. Always do two coats but I got great coverage in one. Pleasantly surprised.

until you take a wet wash cloth to it

 

and again, is fair to compare Aura to Marquee????????????????????????

 

No. Like comparing a Mercedes to a Trabant.

 

I might be in the minority but I like the tests, even though I wouldn't not prime bare drywall the results from tests like this give me ammo when dealing with HO and hard headed GC.

 

Speaking of PVA, it was the article I discovered, by Burt Olhieser, that described how over thinned joint compound could compromise the allowable percentage of PVA binder used to stabilize the mud. I believe the article described a minimum percentage of PVA at 3% ?

I can only imagine how mud is thinned down during production without any consideration to deficiencies due to dilution.

 

Uh oh....here we go...lol

 

I think Dave is ignoring my question on purpose

 

Marquee is the key!:yes: