[PACman]

LOL... Well, not exactly sure what Promar has to do with it, I’m sure your professional customers are out to make money too, at least you better hope they are. But I know you can never resist slipping in a SW slam so...

What i mean is, cheaper jobs mean more jobs to make a living. Like painting new construction and apartments. You gotta do a bunch of them to make any money. Promar is just the paint of choice for most of those jobs, at least on the spec's. It's an inside joke i guess.

 

[PACman]

The reality is that if you aren't lifting the cut in than it's ok to roll over it. The only thing you need to worry about is causing the previous coat to lift or sag. Once it's dry to that point it is fine to apply another coat. The issue is that not all paints get to that point the same. Some have to be completely dry or you may lift it. Others can be applied over a still partially wet coat. That's where the experience of being a professional painter comes in. Knowing how the paint you are using will act. A technical data sheet lists a dry time to recoat pretty much only for the worst case scenario and for DIY'ers who can't tell or won't know when a coat can be recoated. Or for professionals who have no experience working with that particular paint. For waterborne architectural paints anyway, there shouldn't be any inter-coat failure once the second coat is applied as long as it doesn't cause the previously mentioned sags and runs. Some paints in certain situations will appear and feel perfectly dry, but when you apply a second coat it will sag like crazy. I've seen promar 200 do that before. Painter could run his hand on the first coat, and an hour after he applied the second coat both coats were literally running down the wall. This was in a heavily air conditioned room. To cold, dried to touch, second coat, sag like grandmas tatas.

 

[celicaxx]

Most painters are just chasing that Promar dream! Gotta do thousands of them to make a living. Brilliant.

I think in some ways, there's no magic paint, though. Though again, young in the field, I'm learning more and more that there's less perfect magic paints, and the final outcome depends more on prep and application materials and conditions. What will look better, a poorly prepped wall with Aura, or a fully skim coated then properly primed wall with... Cashmere Flat? (Aha, not Promar 200....) Of course the idea is that when using higher end paints you should also be doing high end prep as well. But I think far more often than especially a lot of BM sellers let on it's more just a matter of one product being branded for the wealthy and another product not. Of course there's real big standouts, to me the biggest standout was the now deceased Muralo company, but I just find more and more there's less "magic" paints, and each brand has pluses and minuses and just to use them where appropriate. If I have good conditions and the ceiling is flat and smooth, use BM 508 Ceiling Paint, it's brighter white. If it's a kinda junky looking ceiling, use SW Masterhide, it's flatter and grayer looking and hides more flaws. Neither choice is wrong, it's just different circumstances.

I think the flip side to the ProMar 200 dream is the BM Regal dream, according to BM store owners (I think you've said it) all the expensive paint buyers have fancy trucks and big houses, and cheap paint buyers are homeless or whatever. It's not true or black and white.

I think for getting said high end jobs is how you present yourself and your otherwise existing social circles, whilst paint choice is part of it, I think it's at best 20-30%. The rest is how you conduct yourself and present yourself, and a lot in that is preexisting social strata you're apart of and the economic situation otherwise in your community. Some as well is just even how old you look, if you have a family or are married as well, people will pay you more. Of course with more work and getting more skilled you can change those other variables, but I think it's fanciful to think buying Aura will make you a millionaire over night and make you go from apartment painter to 5 digit job millionaire houses overnight.

 

[Brushman4]

As Nike says, just do it!

 

[Gwarel]

Working today on an wooden door. Lots of sanding and a coat of coverstain. Got a coat of Aura exterior satin on at about 2 o'clock, 4 hour recoat time recommended. It was humid today, but at around 4 we decided to try the finish coat. Quite a bit of drag, (rolling and tipping) so I'm probably going to have to recoat the door tomorrow. Win some, lose some........

Update: Went back to the job this morning and the door dried out great. No drag marks, the paint leveled out nicely so I was able to go on to start another job, an apartment style condo remodel. One coat of primer on walls and two coats on the ceilings (over new drywall). Ceiling paint recommended recoat time is 4 hours, but we put the second coat on after 2 hours. Of course, I'll let you know if I have any issues related to accelerated recoat times.

 

[Lightningboy65]

The reality is that if you aren't lifting the cut in than it's ok to roll over it. The only thing you need to worry about is causing the previous coat to lift or sag. Once it's dry to that point it is fine to apply another coat. The issue is that not all paints get to that point the same. Some have to be completely dry or you may lift it. Others can be applied over a still partially wet coat. That's where the experience of being a professional painter comes in. Knowing how the paint you are using will act.

Good thoughts here PAC.^^^

The comments I have made in the thread are in regard to latex flat or eggshell wall paint. I've seen a few comments on pushing the envelope with trim paints. Many paints with a sheen above eggshell will lift when recoated too soon. One reason good 2 coat coverage is not obtained with darker trim colors. The paint feels dry, you rewet the film when applying second coat, and end up removing a good part of the previously dried film with your brush. You don't even realize what's going on. When the second coat is dry you think..."Gee, that didn't cover too well"??? I don't know if it affects the integrity of the finished product, but recoating higher sheen paints too soon can certainly lead to less than ideal coverage.

And I'm sure most that have been around a few years have had the experience of rolling latex semi gloss in a bathroom, the paint felt dry to the touch, started rolling the second coat, and...a big sheet of the fist coat peels off on the third roller stroke and wraps around your roller. Yes, experience is a great teacher!

 

[PACman]

Good thoughts here PAC.^^^

The comments I have made in the thread are in regard to latex flat or eggshell wall paint. I've seen a few comments on pushing the envelope with trim paints. Many paints with a sheen above eggshell will lift when recoated too soon. One reason good 2 coat coverage is not obtained with darker trim colors. The paint feels dry, you rewet the film when applying second coat, and end up removing a good part of the previously dried film with your brush. You don't even realize what's going on. When the second coat is dry you think..."Gee, that didn't cover too well"??? I don't know if it affects the integrity of the finished product, but recoating higher sheen paints too soon can certainly lead to less than ideal coverage.

And I'm sure most that have been around a few years have had the experience of rolling latex semi gloss in a bathroom, the paint felt dry to the touch, started rolling the second coat, and...a big sheet of the fist coat peels off on the third roller stroke and wraps around your roller. Yes, experience is a great teacher!

paints with higher sheen levels tend to form a film on the outside of the coat a little quicker than flats. Especially if it is a little on the warm side or if there is a breeze. It's a little more important to make sure they are dry enough to recoat, that's for sure.

 

[PACman]

That's an interesting feature of the EVO paints that other paints don't have. It will build on itself while it is wet or partially dry. I've been rolling some of it out and it works pretty darn well. You can take a soaked roller and go over a partially dry coat and it will kind of suck the paint off the roller. You can literally roll over the same area and almost get the roller dry if you want to. Eventually it will start to sag but you really gotta put a lot of paint on to do that. It's pretty interesting stuff. A lot different than any other paint i've ever tested. You can actually feel the roller being "pulled" a little bit as you are rolling with a fully wet roller. Almost feels like the pull you get from dry rolling other paints. Not as pronounced but you can feel it.

 

[Lightningboy65]

Talking about putting it on too thick, I remember when elastomeric paints first came on scene. I had a hard time convincing my employees (and myself) to apply it to the proper thickness. And customers woulds see how thick it was being applied and start asking questions. Gotta put it on there like your not payin' for it !

 

[Lightningboy65]

And speaking of elastomerics- anyone know if BM still makes their elastomeric knife grade patching compound.? That was great stuff for patching larger cracks and holes in masonry. It seems to me I heard they discontinued it.

 

[PACman]

Talking about putting it on too thick, I remember when elastomeric paints first came on scene. I had a hard time convincing my employees (and myself) to apply it to the proper thickness. And customers woulds see how thick it was being applied and start asking questions. Gotta put it on there like your not payin' for it !

I had a customer paint the Holiday inn in San Diego with elastomeric. He was all happy about how much money he saved in paint because he only used 1/3 of what was figured up by our sales rep. Started peeling a couple years later and he had given them a 10 year warranty. He tried to take us to court but his attorney told him he didn't have a chance because he DIDN'T FOLLOW THE SPEC!