[Redux]

If this were just a one off type project, I think the best approach to working smarter, might actually be working harder by just using a hand applied conventional grain filler or even a couple of coats of M&H Ready Patch. What I like about Ready Patch is that it’s a solvent based alkyd filler and will never turn to a crumbly brittle dust beneath the film if exposed to moisture at some given point like most water soluble grain fillers do.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

If this were just a one off type project, I think the best approach to working smarter, might actually be working harder by just using a hand applied conventional grain filler or even a couple of coats of M&H Ready Patch. What I like about Ready Patch is that it’s a solvent based alkyd filler and will never turn to a crumbly brittle dust beneath the film if exposed to moisture at some given point like most water soluble grain fillers do.

Have you tried solarez? Its a UV cure polyester trowelable filler

 

[Redux]

Have you tried solarez? Its a UV cure polyester trowelable filler

Haven’t tried it…I think I recall Bondo having a UV cure polyester resin filler at one point…not to be confused with their UV cure spot putty filler..

 

[celicaxx]

I will answer your first question directly with yes, Rustoleum rattlecan filler primer actually does work fantastic on wood, I recently used it on a DIY project after having some leftover for my first foray into autobody and it worked marvelously. The closest thing in house painting land I could compare it to would actually be Zinnser BIN, but BIN while not "high build" matched it in time to be sandable and sanding to powder well. Even a primer like Zinsser Coverstain or most other oil primers will be fairly "high build" too, but the flow out of them isn't that great and they're thick and goopy, and take a couple of days to sand to powder, whereas the rattlecan 2 in 1 filler primer is generally ready in 3-4 hours.

I don't know how big/how many cabinets you need to do, but if it's a small project like a bathroom vanity I kinda think it would actually be ideal except for the smell aspect, because 2-3 cans in and you'd be done, but an entire kitchen you'd probably end up at 10-15 rattlecans worth and then cost/efficiency wise you'd be better off spraying from a gallon (remember, wood is more porous.)

Also, to steal something from autobody you could use the red Bondo glazing putty as grain filler, too, and you can actually thin it down a little with acetone and/or revive the dried chunks from when you're troweling it out, but it's definitely inconclusive if it will flash or not under latex paint, but if you top coated with said Rustoleum filler primer, it wouldn't.

I never experimented with a latex top coat on top of the Rusto filler primer, though, my guess is it would probably work well being that it's essentially just a porous oil primer.

 

[finishesbykevyn]

I like the sound of that Centurian 1107. Although how is the bonding power on a repaint situation? I would probably still bank on 2 coats and backroll atleast the first coat. My only beef with 2 much build, is that it will start forming a bridge over the floating panel on the doors looking unsightly and be prone to cracking. I would think that a grain filler is still the best option. I just skimmed some dryed out end panels with this stuff yesterday,DYNAMIC JE085003 860mL Dyna Patch Pro Spackling Compound | Investments Hardware Limited. then sanded down with my festool. Turned out fantastic. That spackle is my new favorite all around filler lately.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

I like the sound of that Centurian 1107. Although how is the bonding power on a repaint situation? I would probably still bank on 2 coats and backroll atleast the first coat. My only beef with 2 much build, is that it will start forming a bridge over the floating panel on the doors looking unsightly and be prone to cracking. I would think that a grain filler is still the best option. I just skimmed some dryed out end panels with this stuff yesterday,DYNAMIC JE085003 860mL Dyna Patch Pro Spackling Compound | Investments Hardware Limited. then sanded down with my festool. Turned out fantastic. That spackle is my new favorite all around filler lately.

1107 has excellent bonding and stain/dye/tannin blocking. 2K poly is very flexible and resistant to cracking unlike conversion varnish or lacquer

 

[monarchski]

I like the sound of that Centurian 1107. Although how is the bonding power on a repaint situation? I would probably still bank on 2 coats and backroll atleast the first coat. My only beef with 2 much build, is that it will start forming a bridge over the floating panel on the doors looking unsightly and be prone to cracking. I would think that a grain filler is still the best option. I just skimmed some dryed out end panels with this stuff yesterday,DYNAMIC JE085003 860mL Dyna Patch Pro Spackling Compound | Investments Hardware Limited. then sanded down with my festool. Turned out fantastic. That spackle is my new favorite all around filler lately.

You would do the same thing with the 1107 without all the hand troweling. Spray a heavy coat, sand with your Festool because it will create a lot of dust then apply a second and repeat. It does a great job.

 

[Holland]

You would do the same thing with the 1107 without all the hand troweling. Spray a heavy coat, sand with your Festool because it will create a lot of dust then apply a second and repeat. It does a great job.

agreed. SmartPrime was also able to fill oak grain.

 

[Redux]

MLC’s Level Primer works pretty well for pore filling and leveling. It can be build up to a 10 mil DFT but can’t be used on recoats…unfinished wood or complete removal of existing coatings only.

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=MLC&prodno=W122529&doctype=PDS&lang=2

 

[gamby]

Fine Paints of Europe brushing putty

 

[bobmax8]

Hello,

I come from the autobody world where high build filler primer is used and it works very well for leveling out surfaces. Is there such a thing for wood? I am taking on an oak cabinet project where I need to fill the wood grain. I'd like to spray on a few coats of primer, sand, and the wood grain be gone. Trying to work smarter not harder here lol! I'm wondering if rustoleum automotive filller primer would work on wood? Any other products you've used to such as a wood filler primer?

Thanks!!

I use Sherwin Williams Fast Dry oil primer (green label/interior exterior) when I want to fill rough surfaces. We nick named it "the clump".

 

[Respec]

We just finished an oak cabinet job. Clean/degrease, sand 150, 2 coats of Aqua Coat cabinet grain filler, 2 prime, 2 finish. The Aqua Coat goes on super easy, but shrinks. 2 coats minimum with a light sand between coats. It applies super easy though. Just don't leave any heavy areas or fill detail that would need to be sanded out. Work it into the pores and keep it as clean as possible with your knife. If you keep it clean, the sanding will be easy. If you have heavy spots, it is a pain to sand. A few extra minutes keeping it clean will save time on the back end sanding. After 2 coats of filler, the first prime coat will probably show mild grain, but will fill in on the second coat. It will be smooth for the finish coats.

 

[jbosquetmorra]

I use Sherwin Williams Fast Dry oil primer (green label/interior exterior) when I want to fill rough surfaces. We nick named it "the clump".

I skim coated with PC Woody on some very grainy window sills, and it make it into a piece of glass. Love that stuff. Much better than bondo or Miniwax (which is like Bondo).