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First of all, most of u guys are some real jerk-offs. Even on a painting forum griefers and flamers run wild. Too bad. But thanks to the folks who posted nicely written and genuine responses.

Well, I have to say, my experiment worked like a charm. Not only did I add caulk to the primer I also threw in some Flotrol and Emulsa-bond for good measure. Stirred it up nicely and a got a good thick consistency. Really helped build up the surface for a more smoother look. Did it bond? Damn right. Is it sandable? Oh yeah.

You guys need to think outside the box sometimes. What's with all the negativity? I've been in business for 16 years and if I learned anything its too be creative with products.

How can adding a siliconized acrylic latex caulk to 100% acrylic paint affect any of the qualities of what the primer is designed to do? Don't answer this unless you have a lab where you do tests on the chemical compostions and makeups of painting products. If u tried what i proposed first hand; please fell free to post a response.

Have any of you ever tried to get dry caulk of your hands? Hard isn't it.

Now I must tell you guys the truth. I have been doing this for years. Ive used this product on 8 homes in my area over the past 6 years. Never had one problem at all. On 4 of the homes ive been back to do other work over the years. And the paint job? Still looks fantastic. No peeling paint or mildew. So unless the caulk I put into the primer decides one day to just say **** it and fall off, I should be fine. Though I did use a 55 year caulk.

Summary: No law-suits or call backs. I'm not on the unemployment line yet either.

*I DO NOT ADD CAULK TO THE FINISH COAT. NO NEED TO.
I think being creative is how things evolve and get better. I was wondering the same thing. What could I add to cheap paint to make it better paint without being the stupid one who pays 3x more. I wasn't sure how it would mix and I've spent a lot of time experimenting. I do add liquid nails to plain Elmer's glue and I end up with a great wood glue. I have also added it to acrylic paint and it sticks to metal great. I wanted more of a multi-surface paint with a little latex in it. More like a behr premium ultra. After learning so many hacks off YouTube I figured there had to be paint additive hacks.

Thank you so very much for posting and I very much encourage anyone to play around and try new things. I bet everyone else who said dont try it have boring (missionary) lives. How sad to be so by the book.
 
I bet everyone else who said don't try it have boring (missionary) lives. How sad to be so by the book.
Most of us depend on the work we do holding up. We can not afford to experiment with unproven, custom formulas in paid contracts! The latex/acrylic paints have been formulated by experts in R&D, if more latex/acrylic was going to make a better paint, they would already be in it! The truth is "boring (missionary)" is safer for our incomes!
 
I think being creative is how things evolve and get better. I was wondering the same thing. What could I add to cheap paint to make it better paint without being the stupid one who pays 3x more. I wasn't sure how it would mix and I've spent a lot of time experimenting. I do add liquid nails to plain Elmer's glue and I end up with a great wood glue. I have also added it to acrylic paint and it sticks to metal great. I wanted more of a multi-surface paint with a little latex in it. More like a behr premium ultra. After learning so many hacks off YouTube I figured there had to be paint additive hacks.

Thank you so very much for posting and I very much encourage anyone to play around and try new things. I bet everyone else who said dont try it have boring (missionary) lives. How sad to be so by the book.
You don't just make a paint automatically better by making it thicker and more like glue to apply. You can add talc, chalk, clay, diatomaceous earth, etc, etc to paint to make it thicker (well you can I guess, but I mean paint companies already do.)

As a former member PACMan said though, if you wanted to make a good soup, you can't make a bad soup good by just throwing some corn starch into it to make it thicker, if the ingredients that actually give it flavor aren't there. By this, a paint needs various solvents, bonding agents, and of course you need pigment and colorants. The titanium white and colorants are the most expensive parts of a paint, and generally are what you get when you buy a more expensive paint. Cheap paints can actually cover well, but usually they won't be color accurate as they'll rely on graying out the base to make it less of a true white, and they rely on more of the cheap fillers like chalk, clay, etc. It's not bad to use one if you're realistic about the expectations of a cheap paint, but there are differences both in durability and longevity and to the trained eye. You also have the issue that more expensive paints generally have more warranty built into the cost of the paint in case of a failure.

Since this is a board for professionals, usually you won't see as much experimentation here as professionals can have hundreds of thousands or millions of dollars on the line if a product fails on them. A single large failing job can absolutely bankrupt a business and cost lots of people their jobs. It's not as simple as wasting a couple afternoons like it would be as a DIYer. Admittedly starting as a DIYer and still DIYing my own projects, yes, I experiment myself with products but the difference comes in endorsing these experiments as best practice or as totally risk free propositions. Would it be OK to use homebrewed caulk and primer mixed together painting an old garage for a few hundred bucks? Probably. Would you want to do it on a million dollar house? Probably not.

I personally find the homebrew and unorthodox methods discussions extremely interesting, if anything just because not everyone is in USA with access to a certain product, or they could be in a remote location, there could be product shortages like we had with COVID, or they might be a DIYer on limited funds willing to take a risk, but if you're a professional the game is much different.
 
I think being creative is how things evolve and get better. I was wondering the same thing. What could I add to cheap paint to make it better paint without being the stupid one who pays 3x more. I wasn't sure how it would mix and I've spent a lot of time experimenting. I do add liquid nails to plain Elmer's glue and I end up with a great wood glue. I have also added it to acrylic paint and it sticks to metal great. I wanted more of a multi-surface paint with a little latex in it. More like a behr premium ultra. After learning so many hacks off YouTube I figured there had to be paint additive hacks.

Thank you so very much for posting and I very much encourage anyone to play around and try new things. I bet everyone else who said dont try it have boring (missionary) lives. How sad to be so by the book.
Ressurecting a 9 year old thread is not 'creativity....'
 
Gentlemen. I happened upon this thread when googling "mixing latex caulk into latex paint." Snarkiness aside, I'm going to try to fill the small cracks between the floorboards of an old porch (protected by a roof) by doing just that. I will brush this thickened version into the cracks first, then apply the final coat. please wish me well.
 
Gentlemen. I happened upon this thread when googling "mixing latex caulk into latex paint." Snarkiness aside, I'm going to try to fill the small cracks between the floorboards of an old porch (protected by a roof) by doing just that. I will brush this thickened version into the cracks first, then apply the final coat. please wish me well.

I’ll take odds on:
Will fail on the edges. Will also fail with seasonal expansion and contraction. I’ll give it two years.

please resurrect this thread again when you things go awry.
 
I’ll take odds on:
Will fail on the edges. Will also fail with seasonal expansion and contraction. I’ll give it two years.

please resurrect this thread again when you things go awry.
On the edges of what?
Also The spaces between the floorboards are already expanding and contracting so I figure the caulk will make the paint more flexible.
 
On the edges of what?
Also The spaces between the floorboards are already expanding and contracting so I figure the caulk will make the paint more flexible.
… the “edges” of the porch, the part that catches the weather, unless it is completely enclosed it probably gets some rain, snow, and maybe sun.

I think it’s going to create a headache for the next person who has to scrape up the floor when it starts to peel, hope you don’t need a sander.

Adding caulk to a floor paint (walking surface) is probably not recommended by the manufacturer, but I’m all for finding out what happens!
 
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