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Chinex is actually really good for oil paints and varnish
Yeah, I've seen other guys do it. Just watched a video yesterday of a guy using oil based primer with a synthetic (that brush is toast).

Wouldn't surprise me if Chinex is resistant to chemicals, it is a surprisingly durable filament.

That said (on a personal note) I don't use synthetics with solvents. I find the solvents slightly deform the synthetic filaments and shorten the lifespan and usefulness significantly.

I am a firm believer in:
Synthetic for water based
Natural Bristles for oils

I only ever use China Bristle (or other natural bristles) with oils and varnishes.

Part of the reason for this is clean-up.
I never wash 'oil brushes' in water, and never wash 'water brushes' in oil. Mixing them usually messes up the brush.

I throw latex brushes into a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water to soak until I can get to them. Similarly, I will often suspend varnish brushes in mineral spirits and let them soak overnight... a synthetic could not take that without deforming.
 

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Yeah, I've seen other guys do it. Just watched a video yesterday of a guy using oil based primer with a synthetic (that brush is toast).

Wouldn't surprise me if Chinex is resistant to chemicals, it is a surprisingly durable filament.

That said (on a personal note) I don't use synthetics with solvents. I find the solvents slightly deform the synthetic filaments and shorten the lifespan and usefulness significantly.

I am a firm believer in:
Synthetic for water based
Natural Bristles for oils

I only ever use China Bristle (or other natural bristles) with oils and varnishes.

Part of the reason for this is clean-up.
I never wash 'oil brushes' in water, and never wash 'water brushes' in oil. Mixing them usually messes up the brush.

I throw latex brushes into a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water to soak until I can get to them. Similarly, I will often suspend varnish brushes in mineral spirits and let them soak overnight... a synthetic could not take that without deforming.
That's actually how chinex came to be in the first place. There was a shortage of chinese hog bristle and brush manufacturers asked dupont to come up with a synthetic version with similar properties.
 

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I almost always wrap with plastic wrap. It works well. Why do you use foil?
I can get a tight wrap around the brush and form the foil to ensure the tip of the brush remains relatively flat, I find it easy to unwrap, and actually reuse the foil if needed. I lay the brush on a piece of foil and roll the brush or fold the brush into the foil, neat, clean and easy, never failed me yet. You could probably leave it like this for a few days. Older Timer taught me, just something always available around the house.
 

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Has anyone used or tried the Omega Brushes from Europe, From their website:
All finishes yield their full potential in appearance and longevity when applied with an Omega brush. Only Omega natural bristles possess the fine, flagged ends and required stiffness necessary to apply and smooth a Hollandlac or Eurothane finish. (The use of a roller is perfectly suitable for the application of Satin or Matte paints on large expanses such as walls and ceilings.) The use of a proper brush makes application much less tedious and greatly increases productivity. EUROLUX and ECO paints may be applied with OMEGA Orel brushes (S1290, S1292 and S1263).
 

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Has anyone used or tried the Omega Brushes from Europe, From their website:
All finishes yield their full potential in appearance and longevity when applied with an Omega brush. Only Omega natural bristles possess the fine, flagged ends and required stiffness necessary to apply and smooth a Hollandlac or Eurothane finish. (The use of a roller is perfectly suitable for the application of Satin or Matte paints on large expanses such as walls and ceilings.) The use of a proper brush makes application much less tedious and greatly increases productivity. EUROLUX and ECO paints may be applied with OMEGA Orel brushes (S1290, S1292 and S1263).
Yeah their pretty good FPE is a distributor I may carry them if I ever get around to bring in FPE. Otherwise I carry E&J shipmates which are also excellent.
 

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Why? In what capacity?
Handmade in the USA.
I reached out to corona to carry their product and was told by the ceo that there are two other stores in my area that already carry them so they wouldn't sell to me. They said if any of those stores ever drop corona from their inventory they would come back and reconsider. Sure enough not even two years later the sales rep is back in my store as one of the stores dumped them. too late as soon I had got off the phone I had already ordered product from EJ/whizz. It turned out for the better because now I have a huge selection of whizz products with very competitive pricing since I buy direct.

They make a good brush but pretty terrible business model when you need to create artificial scarcity IMO.
 

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If you haven't tried the Proform Blaze, you are doing yourself a disservice!! Hands down the best trim brush ever. My favorite is the 2" oval angle in the beaver handle. It's magic.

 

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I reached out to corona to carry their product and was told by the ceo that there are two other stores in my area that already carry them so they wouldn't sell to me. They said if any of those stores ever drop corona from their inventory they would come back and reconsider. Sure enough not even two years later the sales rep is back in my store as one of the stores dumped them. too late as soon I had got off the phone I had already ordered product from EJ/whizz. It turned out for the better because now I have a huge selection of whizz products with very competitive pricing since I buy direct.

They make a good brush but pretty terrible business model when you need to create artificial scarcity IMO.
Benjamin-Moore does the same thing, here in Canada. Only 1 or 2 stores, even in big cities.
 

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We like the purdy clear cut glide. 2 or 2 1/2”. It’s a stiff brush but we do install most of the trim we are painting. When it’s mdf (like crown) we almost always get away with 1 coat of Gardz and 1 topcoat. Bare pine or poplar gets bm 046 then 1 or 2 topcoats. The stiff bristles put it on quick and makes nice tight brush marks that practically disappear and dries perfect. For oil based we like the corona Excalibur. Both leave narrow cut lines and both provide excellent back brush capabilities if we roll the trim and then tip it off.


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Benjamin-Moore does the same thing, here in Canada. Only 1 or 2 stores, even in big cities.
They certainly don't do that here in the states. They will limit individual owners though, I can think of one guy in pariticular whom BM said no to even though there wasn't anyone in his city. Was thinking about setting up a shop there too. That guy runs his own paint oufit so other painters don't like to shop at his store (currently ppg)... also hes got a sailors mouth and a bad temper to go with it.
 

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Hey everyone!

Taking a quick survey...just curious!

For this scenario, what brush are you currently using, or what is your favorite?

Interior trim, brushing Advance (or emerald urethane) semi gloss. New or repaint... 3”-6” baseboard window/door trim.

I’m using a 2 1/2” purdy clearcut, but more recently a Wooster ultra pro in 2 1/2”
I like the Wooster better...
Finally found a good one ! 2” Picasso long handle sash! Pic1 model! Or 2.5 model for wall paints! (Pic)
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393F9422-9167-41ED-B194-0A2470D3543F.jpeg
 

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always used Purdys---- but now have found picasso and love the way they hold an edge-- till i find a better brush for the $$ i will be a picasso lover!
 

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Remember some time ago when a bunch of guys started getting all hyped over Picasso brushes - until they started having issues with the bristles all falling out. Maybe they have addressed the issue by now - maybe not.
 
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